Secrets of a dynasty-era winery

Small county, known as the Venice of the East, produces a refreshing and heady rice wine

For anyone who loves to be near the water, Wuzhen in Zhejiang province is heaven on Earth.

The small county, known as the Venice of the East, is built along ancient canals and can be explored on foot in just two days. Among its abundant history museums and local delicacies, sipping San Bai Rice Wine while watching wooden boats float by is one of the most authentic Wuzhen experiences that can't be missed.

Above: The only modern device that rice wine distillers in Wuzhen, Zhejiang province, use is a thermometer. Buttom: Gaogongsheng San Bai Rice Wine employs six distillers, the youngest of whom is over 50. Photos provided to China Daily

Known for its winemaking business in ancient times, Wuzhen had more than 20 wineries during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), but Gaogongsheng is the only one that has survived.

Selected as a tribute to the Ming emperors, Gaogongsheng San Bai Rice Wine is popular for its rich flavor and refreshing fragrance. Despite its reputation, it is easy to miss the winery as it looks quite modest from the street. However, after you step inside, it's clear you're in one of the most traditional wineries in China.

There are no modern devices except a thermometer. And for experienced brewers like Shen Jinchao, 70, who has been making wine for decades, even that is not necessary. Shen is one of six brewers working in the winery, with the youngest being over 50.

"Young people prefer to work in modern wineries. Here it is too old-fashioned and too much hard work for them," Shen says.

Shen, who doesn't drink, has always been fascinated by the art of winemaking.

"Why this barrel tastes different from that one and why this gets ripe sooner than that one, these questions are always in my head."

San Bai, which literally means "three whites", refers to the ingredients used for winemaking: rice, water and jiuqu (a culture of yeast and bacteria). The rice is soaked in water for 10 hours before being steamed on firewood for about 40 minutes until it is cooked thoroughly. The rice is then cooled with well water to 30 C. For every 50 kg of rice, 150 grams of yeast is added.

After 24 hours, the first byproduct is made: fermented rice steeped in sweet rice wine, a popular dessert in South China that can be enjoyed alone or cooked with eggs and glutinous rice balls. The brewer then adds an equal amount of water to the rest of the fermented rice. Some 15 days later, sweet rice wine is produced that is 10-percent alcohol. For those who prefer a mild taste, this is the perfect choice.

The rest of the mixture is filled into smaller containers and stored for three to four months, depending on the room temperature. It is then poured into the squeezer and separated into liquid and rice. The liquid is steamed with the rice on top serving as distiller. It is stored for another three years before being packaged in pots and put on the shelf.

The winery produces about 50 kilos of San Bai wine a day, and one kg costs 100 yuan ($16.14). It is only available in Wuzhen.

While the price is quite reasonable considering all the hard work that goes into making the final product, it is being challenged by cheaper artificially mixed alcohols, says Zhu Mingfen, a saleswoman at Gaogongsheng.

The San Bai Rice Wine is usually enjoyed with local delicacies like flavored beans, fried peanuts and stinky tofu. Visitors can tour the winery while sampling the wine for free.

sunyuanqing@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily Africa Weekly 02/20/2015 page26)