Brevity is the soul of the delicious menu at this Yunnan restaurant. Belle Taylor samples the sumptuous options.

Walking into Beijing's Gulou area's newest Yunnan restaurant, Hani Gejiu, is like falling through the rabbit hole and finding yourself quite glad you did so. To reach the restaurant, you must navigate one of Beijing's less-picturesque hutong, tucked away in a nondescript corner of the drum and bell towers.

If you are visiting in winter, you must battle the icy winds that whip through the darkened alleyways, which make walking through the door of Hani Gejiu such a lovely surprise. The decor is warm and inviting, the wooden tables and colorful woven textiles are rustic but elegant, the space is well lit and cosy, and the wait staff greets you with enthusiasm.

It was a Tuesday night and the place was empty except for a family enjoying hotpot in the corner - a new addition to the menu. But the waitress on deck was attentive and friendly, seating us while asking if we would like hot or cold water for the table and topping up our glasses with a teapot throughout the meal.

Hani Gejiu is not your typical Yunnan restaurant with an encyclopedic menu of dishes. Instead a two-page menu is divided into three sections: cold dishes, side dishes (which are basically mains), and noodles and rice. There is also an option of the Chef's Special, a selection of the menu chosen by the kitchen. Having taken this option on an earlier visit, we know it is the best way to try the highlights of the menu, especially if you are new to Yunnan food and are unsure of what to order, or if you are with a group.

First up were the fried potato balls, which are about as good as they sound - sinfully delicious. The texture is spot-on with a lightly crispy outer layer giving way to fluffy potato on the inside. They come with a vinegar sauce with chopped coriander, chili and garlic, which has a perfectly bitter tang and a nice hit of chili.

Next were the deep-fried mushrooms. The delicacy of this dish speaks to the quality of the ingredients used at Hani Gejiu. The mushrooms were crispy without being cluggy with just the right amount of bite and had retained their earthy flavor.

We had debated whether to order the Hani-Style Roast Fish or the fried goat cheese with Yunnan ham and pepper as our big main dish. Having tried the latter on a previous visit, it was tempting to return to an old favorite. The ham had been delicious - perfectly salted, top-quality meat - and the goat cheese was lightly fried to melt-in-your-mouth perfection. But deciding to mix it up, we went for the fish. We were not disappointed.

It was actually two fish that arrived at the table. They were nice and crispy on the skin but the flesh was perfectly cooked, firm and moist. Again, this dish spoke of the care the kitchen at Hani Gejiu takes in sourcing top-quality ingredients

The restaurant has a wine list better than most. Local beer is, of course, available. But for those who can't face another Dali, there is a small, but well-curated selection of wines, with France, the US and Australia all represented. Unusually, there is also a sparkling wine on offer, the Italian Bisol Bel Star Prosecco, reasonably priced at 190 yuan ($31) a bottle.

Hani Gejiu is slightly more expensive than other Yunnan restaurants in the same area. But it differentiates itself with its elegance, top-quality ingredients and small, but perfectly formed, wine list.

The limited menu may mean the kitchen can focus on doing a little well, but they run the risk of alienating the hardcore fans of Yunnan food, who may balk at the absence of a favorite dish, and the lack of green vegetables is puzzling.

The brief menu might work a little better if there was more of an explanation of the reasons behind its brevity. It certainly feels as if a lot of thought and care has gone into curating it, but the lack of information can leave the diner wondering if the chef's repertoire is simply limited. The food itself speaks of the kitchen's talents, it would be nice to see them more challenged.

Contact the writer at belletaylor@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 01/05/2014 page8)