In eastern and southern cities in China, Xinjiang restaurants come in many packages. Some are quiet chuan'er (kebab) stands on the street. Some are tourist traps with a floor show and dancing and yard-long beers that can seem like a Uygur fraternity party.

Somewhere in between is Crescent Moon, tucked into a capital alley. It's not about convenience or a show, it's just a pleasure to eat there.

While it's far more than a chuan'er stand, that doesn't mean it has a soul above kebabs: One review calls Crescent Moon "the king of kebabs", and no wonder. Skewered onto steel cutlery the Three Muskateers might appreciate, the hearty chunks of seasoned meat are leaner than street chuan'er, with just enough fat to keep the grilled meat juicy.

That promise is magnified in the leg of lamb, presented whole and then sliced up into bigger-than-bite-size chunks, each rosy with spices, so you can test the succulence with a knife before savoring it between your teeth. That may sound highfalutin for a simple plate of roasted meat, but the best chefs say their supreme art is doing simple things superbly.

If there is a problem with Crescent Moon's lamb, it's deciding between too many good options.

If you're not driven there by total carnivorous lust, the tastiest option may be the pilaf, the lightly oiled rice from the countryside, studded with colorful carrot bits and slices of grilled lamb. We never fail to order the big plate, and take away half of it for tomorrow's lunch.

Other traditional dishes include fried lamb with bread, and a popular chicken, potato and bell pepper stew (dapanji) served over a big round of the pizza-like Xinjiang bread. Whichever you choose, the homemade yoghurt is not to be missed.

Like most Xinjiang restaurants, this is a Muslim eatery with a tolerance for alcohol. The Sinkiang black beer is a favorite, a fresh barley brew that's more quaffable than Guinness and such. (There's a yellow version, too.)

Our sampling of the red wines on offer from China's west, on the other hand, have been disappointing so far - but we confess to experimenting with the inexpensive end. The result was distinctly unworthy of the rustic but otherworldly lamb.

The restaurant is clean and the green-and-white decor is charming, with its ornate tea urns and jeweled wall hangings. The Xinjiang music is lively but stays in the background - you can have a conversation without having to shout over a floor show.

And despite boo-bird grumbling in online reviews - the owner is sometimes described with more asterisks than words - the service has been consistently friendly, pleasant and reasonably attentive on our visits.

Menu pictures are excellent, so there's little risk if your best language in China is pointing. Generous portions at a reasonable price make Crescent Moon a good choice to take visiting groups of friends for an authentic Chinese experience that's (just a little) off the beaten path in Beijing.

michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 11/24/2013 page14)