Beijing

It is either absolute truth in the adage "happy cows give great meat" or the superb skill of the chef, but the Wagyu beef fillet with black pepper sauce at STAY at the Shangri-La Hotel is heaven in the mouth.

An American friend is already calling it "the best beef treat" he has had in Asia.

The meat is fresh and tender, and it is apparent as soon as you put knife to plate. The fillet slices like butter, so smooth-textured that it's like a sponge soaking up all the flavors of the sauce.

And while you are enjoying your Wagyu, you can freely interact with friends and family at the table. Unlike other haute cuisine establishments, STAY is totally relaxed, something that reflects the guiding principles of French Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alleno, who insists that his restaurants be warm and intimate.

The Communal Table easily seats from six to 10 guests. It's dedicated to the sharing of food and conversation among family and friends, something that is encouraged by the chef's introduction of innovative and playful French cuisine to the Beijing culinary scene.

For example, sea-urchin sashimi is covered with a half-boiled quail's egg, cream and caviar. The sweet, thick cream-and-egg mixture coats the sea urchin and cocoons its slight fishiness in the mouth.

Then there is the chef's innovative "deconstructed" cheesecake made into a ball and covered with toasted almond flakes. When you bite into the cake, strawberry preserve oozes out, surprising and delighting diners with its childlike charm.

You cannot leave without visiting the Pastry Library, an interactive platform invented by chef Yannick for both pastry chef and guests, where diners take part in the creation of their dessert by picking out the last ingredient or topping.

What can be more delightful than eating something that you helped create?

You may contact the writer at hanbingbin@chinadaily.com.cn.

China Daily

(China Daily 12/18/2011 page13)