We had already seen the images of the landmark and been duly impressed, especially the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest. When we finally stood before its red-lacquered gate, from where we could glimpse the imposing central building within, we were enthralled by its loftiness.

Hailed as a showcase of Chinese classical gardens, the Temple of Heaven boasts architectural characteristics typical of Northern China, grand with none of the delicate scale of the exquisite gardens of the south.

Set off by the cyan-colored sky, the temple tiles' imperial blue glaze gleams brilliantly. Underneath, the beams and brackets, colored just as brilliantly, win great admiration for their detailed work.

But we are fascinated by the landmark not just because of its history as an imperial thanksgiving shrine, but because it has become a park for common people. (For a minimal fee, you can stay all day.)

Here, the various activities are infused with a rare joie de vivre. Many say the best time to visit is early morning - to see people doing morning exercises ranging from the slow and flowing movements of tai chi to the vigorous kicks and punches of karate to the elegant moves of swordplay.

During the afternoon, a group of middle-aged people was singing together as a small chorus. It did not matter that the accordionist could not remember the complete melody and the soloist had gone slightly out of tune. They were so engrossed in what they were doing that it was a delight to watch them.

Another man had just ended his singing session and was still singing, loudly and happily, on his way out to the gate.

Nearby, chess players attracted a crowd, all of whom vigorously supported their chosen champion and were arguing every move until they were blue in the face.

Sometimes travel can be exhausting, especially when you have a long list of attractions to tick off as "must-see". The Temple of Heaven, however, is the place to roam and wander. On a hot afternoon, the ancient trees shade and protect visitors, extending their lush branches in gracious hospitality. Gazing up at them, we felt truly small and humbled.

You can contact China Daily interns Luo Weiteng and Xie Jun at

sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 08/07/2011 page15)