At Tibet's holiest shrine, young monks are getting
up at 3 a.m., not to pray, but to watch the World Cup.
Lights flickered in the windows of the Potala Palace, as France beat
Portugal this week to set up a final showdown on Sunday against Italy.
Monks watched on a 54-centimeter (21-inch) color TV, drinking Coca-Cola and
eating instant noodles, said Lobsang, a 27-year-old monk with a gapped-toothed
smile and a closely shorn head.
"I get very excited, very happy, when I watch the games because I get to see
a lot of the famous players," said Lobsang, who like many of the 83 monks at the
palace goes by only one name.
Tibet's Buddhist monks aren't encouraged to play soccer, though they are
allowed to watch. But among ordinary Tibetans, the game is as wildly popular as
it is in the rest of sports-mad China.
"Most Tibetans love and play football," says Bian Ba, a former rear guard for
Tibet's official league team. He now works in the Potala Palace, helping with
tourists and keeping an eye on the treasures.
At the sports bar of the Yak Hotel in Lhasa, about 20 mostly Tibetan fans
watched games as they drank beer and ate meat and potatoes grilled on skewers
over a trough of hot coals.
Restaurants in the Tibetan capital that stayed open until early morning were
crammed with Tibetans and Chinese migrant workers watching the game.
At the Johkang Monastery, where the main hall is filled with jewel-encrusted
gold religious statues, the walls of the dormitory for young monks are hung with
posters of Brazil's Pele and Ronaldo and Real Madrid's Roberto Carlos. The monks
call them the "soccer kings."
A young monk sits on a floor cushion absorbed in a Chinese-language soccer
magazine with articles about England's David Beckham and other stars.
But is it acceptable for monks to become so attached to a sport when their
goal is to let go of worldly pleasures?
Lobsang, from the Potala, thinks so.
"This activity brings a kind of happiness," he said. "It doesn't harm anybody
and it brings people together."