Morio
By Shuk-Wah Chung (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2010-10-14 15:38
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Intimate space, traditional design and top quality ingredients make this restaurant worth it all for a unique experience into fine Japanese dining.
“Irasshaimase!” (“Welcome!”), says waitresses. A friendly smile, a bow and I’m led by the clip-clop of their Japanese clogs against the wooden floorboards and taken to a private booth. I take off my shoes and nestle into the traditional sunken table, lean back with my hands behind me and take in the noir surroundings – wasabi green paneled walls, black-latticed doors and minimalist flower arrangements. In fact, if Morio was a woman she’d be humble in her natural beauty; traditional but not conservative; and delicate and caring. But Morio is actually a man – Morio Sakayori, a Tokyo native who has brought his style of humble, creative and delicate cooking to Beijing.
Using ingredients unique to Japan – Morio regularly goes back to Japan and personally selects and purchases the ingredients, coming back to Beijing with shopping bags laden with goods – you can be assured that what you’re getting is only of the best quality. And if you’re not sure how to eat the beautifully presented dishes, Morio will show you how.
He pours the balsamic soy and virgin olive oil over the raw flounder fish, and with chopsticks dabs into the homemade fish roe wasabi. He places the green paste onto a thinly slice of fish and wraps it into a ball and onto my plate. The result is soft, fresh and melt in the mouth. Best of all the wasabi is gentle and doesn’t fire up into your nose like you’d expect.
For those wary of raw fish the beef tenderloin and vegetables in fresh spring roll is another choice as a cold appetizer. The beef is prepared “taktaki” style - seared briefly over a hot flame; marinated in Japanese soy sauce, fish sauce and Japanese lemon; sliced thinly; and seasoned with ginger. The result is juicy and sour; a fresh morsel that needs to be chewed slowly to appreciate its bursting flavor.
Minimalism is the crux of traditional Japanese design – beauty abounds naturally. So when the grilled chicken arrived my immediate thought was disappointment in being presented such a non-creative dish. However, buried inside the crispy skin was a creamy surprise of braised Japanese seaweed - simple, humble and delectable.
Keeping things simple and with flavors that aren’t too overpowering he then serves us two of his own creations: the teriyaki beef tenderloin topped with onion and Japanese plum is sweet and tender; and the stir-fried garlic spicy shrimps with celery and shitake, is his non-oily Japanese take on the Chinese dish.
But after all the fish, teriyaki and raw beef a challenge might be in order and the green tea mousse will do just that. Fresh cream, gelatin and green tea powder makes up this meltingly delicious mousse. Digest it down with some sake or perhaps a specially designed cocktail and at the end as the waitress clears the table, do as the Japanese would do by saying "gochisou-sama" in thanks for the generous meal you’ve just had.
Location
7 Gongti Xi Lu (inside Hotel G), Chaoyang District.//北京朝阳区 工体西路7号（G酒店内）Tel:010-6551 6999
Beijing
Service quality:
excellent
Food quality:
excellent
Price per head (RMB):
300-400
Environment:
excellent
Feature dish or menu:
Beef Tenderloin and Vegetables in Fresh Spring Roll – 50RMB
Grilled Chicken with Japanese Braised Seaweed – 40RMB
Teriyaki Beef Tenderloin – 65RMB
Stir-fried Garlic, Spicy Shrimps, Celery and Shitake – 48RMB
Flounder Fish with Balsamic Soy and Vinegar – 50RMB
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