Soup of the day
By Shi Yingying (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-07-30 10:48
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Andalusian chef Dani Garcia presenting his version of gazpacho. Provided to China Daily |
Gazpacho is a regional soup with international appeal, Shi Yingying reports.
Flash flamenco dancing is not the only tasty thing of international note that comes out of the southern Spanish region of Andalusia. There is also gazpacho, the delicious cold soup concocted from tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, anchovy, garlic and olive oil - another proud export from this fiercely proud region on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean.
During Shanghai's hot and humid summer, the Spain Pavilion at Expo 2010 invited celebrated Andalusia chef Dani Garcia to the Gran Melia Hotel to dish up this delightful soup. The Michelin-star chef, who is also the Andalusia Tourism Ambassador, has dedicated much of his menu from his restaurant in Spain to both traditional and interpretive cold soups.
"We are in the south (of Spain) and because of its climate, a series of dishes has been created to combat the high temperatures," said Garcia. "Cold soups like gazpacho and ajo blanco are among those."
Standing in the yellow-and-orange toned open kitchen of the Gran Melia Hotel's Acqua restaurant, chef Garcia demonstrates how to make gazpacho.
"Traditionally we ground summer vegetables with a pestle and mortar to puree and leave them to chill in the cellar, but now the blender and refrigerator will do that," said the chef as he threw the ingredients into a powerful blender.
After putting some anchovy on top of the thick soup and pressing it gently underneath the surface, the chef spilled few drops of olive oil on the soup. "You cannot understand Andalusia cuisine without olive oil," he said.
To understand the scale of olive production in Andalusia, a drive from Granada to Cordoba will give you some idea, as olive orchards dominate the scenery along the 235-kiometer route.
"Every kitchen in Andalusia has at least two bottles of olive oil, and they're different brands," said the Spain Pavilion's Patricia Ortega Dolz, who is also from the region.
The last step to making gazpacho is to add some cheese flakes. "The selection of cheeses found in Andalusia is impressive," said chef Garcia. "And the one I'm in love with is a cheese made from goats' milk from a breed found in Malaga."
Though the creamy goats' cheese is a favorite among the Spanish, Chinese people might find it too strong or zesty.
Gazpacho is not only a restaurant favorite, but is often prepared in homes for entertaining because it is relatively quick and easy to make, and can be prepared ahead of time and in quantities.
"People from Andalusia have no problem experimenting with various types of seasonal vegetables for gazpacho," said Dolz. "We sometimes even add in ice cubes."
Different from the classic gazpacho in color and taste is another Spanish cold soup, ajo blanco.
"Traditional ajo blanco was once a slightly bitter soup of almonds, olive oil, garlic, vinegar and water," said chef Garcia. "So it was served with grapes or melon to add a note of sweetness. Today, chefs use that melon or other fruits to make it sweeter."