Sands of time
By Usha Sankar (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-03-11 09:59
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Nile cruises never boring
The only way to travel between Luxor and Aswan is by ship, as overland travel is banned because of terror threats. There are several companies offering Nile cruises, ranging from modest to extravagant.
Dine on deck and watch the sun go down on the horizon, coloring the waters with its many hues, enjoy the evening entertainment of belly dancers in the ship's interior, explore the onboard shop or make small talk with others onboard - a Nile cruise is never boring. But my abiding memory is not of any of these.
As I stood late one evening on the deck, I saw half a dozen boats come up to the ship and the peddlers shouting "hola, hola, gelabaya".
I knew that "gelabaya" referred to the long tunic worn by Nubians. The ship's entertainment crew had organized a fancy dress evening and guests had been told to come dressed in this typical Nubian costume.
As I watched in amazement, I heard the boatmen calling attention to their wares and every time anyone on board expressed the faintest interest in any of those long tunics, up would come flying a bundle.
Even as I wondered how they were going to get paid, frantic bargaining was happening between the tourists and these illiterate Egyptians, in rapid, fluent Spanish. A deal was struck and money was sent back the same way. The nimble footed peddlers picked it up before it hit the water!
And, just as suddenly as they had appeared, the boats disappeared, heading off in the direction of another cruise ship. I hadn't noticed that a young lady from the crew was standing right behind me as I watched all this open-mouthed.
"They can also speak fluent French,"she said with a wink.
It was entrepreneurship of the highest order.