A shell of a good meal

By Pauline D Loh (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-09-25 10:37

Dining on crabs in a restaurant can cost a pretty penny, but a Mid-Autumn crustacean feast is worth every cent.
Here are a few pointers:

Selecting crabs:

Go to a large fresh-produce market, such as Chongwenmen in Beijing. Choose crabs that are heavy for their size. They'll be trussed up, but you can check their liveliness by looking at their eyes, which should be bright and sharp. They should appear to glare at you when you tap their shells.

A male crab has an arrow-shaped flap or apron, while a female crab has a fat, minaret-shaped flap.

You'll also need to get fresh or dried perilla leaves, plenty of ginger and a bottle of the best Zhejiang black vinegar, which has a sticky richness similar to a very good, aged Modena balsamic.

Preparing crabs:

Scrub the crabs well and place them shell-side down in a large steamer to keep the fat from oozing out. Because the crabs are so expensive, every drop counts.

Sprinkle the crustaceans with thinly sliced ginger strips and perilla leaves. Depending on the crabs' sizes, you will need to steam them for 15 to 18 minutes. When they're bright red all over, they're ready to serve.

Serving crabs:

Traditionally, every diner is served one male and one female crab, and a bowl of sweet vinegar dip with finely minced ginger. This is because traditional Chinese pharmacology defines the crabs as intensely cooling, and the ginger will warm the body.

Stir brown or raw cane sugar into Zhejiang black vinegar until it dissolves. Adjust the sweetness by adding chopped ginger.

Eating crabs:

First, remove and discard the flap. Pry off the box-like shell, which will be full of roe and should be enjoyed first.

Next, break off all the legs. That will leave the torso of the crab. Crack it along the natural seam to discover more rich roe hidden in the middle. After that, remove all the meat from the claws and legs. Save the torsos' tiny chunks of delicate white meat for last.

Take your time; don't rush, and remember to take delicate sips of warmed wine between mouthfuls. End the meal with a cup of tummy-warming sweet ginger tea, made by simply boiling a large piece of crushed ginger sweetened with brown sugar.

You are now fully initiated into the art of the Mid-Autumn crab feasting ritual - one appreciated by gourmets past and present, and celebrated in poetry, prose and art by literary greats from all periods.