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Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Quito, Ecuador
(Agencies)
Updated: 2009-09-14 13:31
QUITO - Perched 9,350 feet above sea level, Quito is a gateway to sweeping Andean panoramas and a UNESCO world heritage monument. The center of the capital of Ecuador, which takes its name from the nearby equatorial line, is a living museum of Spanish colonial architecture, freshened by over $300 million in recent restorations. FRIDAY 6 p.m. - Board a cable car to climb to 13,500 feet for a bird's eye view. Looming above is the summit of the Pichincha volcano, which belched ash as recently as 1999. 7 p.m. - Soak in colonial-era ambience with a drink outdoors at Tianguez, at the foot of twin-towered San Francisco monastery, whose facade recalls Spain's Escorial. 8 p.m. - Dine at nearby Hotel Majestic. As a guitar duo strums folk tunes, try turnover empanadas made from yucca root and banana flour, spiced with Pico de Gallo sauce using peppers, onion, and garlic. Grab a window table for a view of the cathedral. Its floodlit cupolas are sheathed in a checkerboard of green, beige, yellow and white tiles. 9 p.m. - Head to La Ronda, a cobblestoned 1,000-foot (300 meter) walkway, festooned with red geraniums in vases fastened to wrought-iron balconies. Live music pours from a profusion of bars. Handicraft stores and art galleries are open late. To warm up drink canelazo, stirred in knee-high ceramic pots resting on fire-lit grills. Brewed from sugarcane-derived liquor, it is flavored with cinnamon, lime and oranges.
SATURDAY 8 a.m. - Ride the rails to Cotopaxi, Ecuador's highest active volcano. The newly restored train trundles on a route away from populated areas, offering unspoiled views. 9 a.m. - At the Tambillo stop, order a $1 breakfast of steaming corn cobs, fresh white cheese and nearly 1-inch beans. 10:40 a.m. - At Boliche take a guided drive up Cotopaxi to a 14,760-foot (4,500-meter-) high perch. View glaciers slashed by lava-reddened earth. Rest on the soft volcanic ash, bathed by moist breezes wafting up from the Amazon jungle. More than a dozen mountain ridges fan out below. 2 p.m. - With weekend traffic light, zip back by taxi to central Quito within 45 minutes. 3 p.m. - Visit La Compania. Some guidebooks describe it as one of Latin America's most beautiful churches. Walls gleam with gold leafed carvings under a windowed blue pastel dome. A vaulted nave is crisscrossed by countless Arabesque geometric shapes. 4 p.m. - Tour the Santo Domingo church which is blends Renaissance, Moorish and Baroque styles. |