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Substance over style
(china daily)
Updated: 2009-06-26 10:35 Versace and Gucci, whose mood was "resolutely optimistic", started their shows with men dressed in white or pale creams. Versace also showed comfort with unbuttoned tunics and safari-like jackets, also seen at Ermenegildo Zegna and Ferre which had sparkly tops underneath. Reds also featured - from fiery red for Gucci evening suits to a mainly bright red and black line of suits, tops and trousers from Dirk Bikkembergs. Bottega Veneta had a mix of red tones - purple, red and orange with tie-dye patterns on striped jackets.
"Men are looking for excitement in fashion," Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier says.
Earthy tones were also seen at Salvatore Ferragamo. Burberry's Christopher Bailey took outerwear from dark to pastel colors, which he said was like starting with rain and ending with sunshine, an analogy of the tough economic climate.
He chose a softer shoulder on suiting, worn with crew necks and knits that had straps. Cavalli also splashed pink, yellow and green on tops, trousers and shiny shoes.
Denim featured heavily - ripped all the way down at Dolce & Gabbana and the key material for the D&G Brit Cowboy line - in jeans, shirts and patchwork prints, at times embroidered with shiny studs. The designer duo mixed denim with velvet jackets, ties and bowties and suede or leather boots.
Denim was dark at Armani and teamed with a tuxedo at Bottega Veneta. Embroidery took center stage at Dolce & Gabbana who had sparkling beaded evening wear. Cavalli put embroidery on jackets and trousers, some of which had tops that were folded over hips.
"You have to fight the crisis with creativity, with the best materials," Cavalli says.
For accessories, bags came in all shapes and sizes while shoes were mainly rounded or had raised tops when it came to sneakers. Designers also played with plastic sunglasses.
Reuters
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