Chiu Chow cuisine is commonly regarded as healthy depending on the freshness and quality of the ingredients for taste and flavor. Oil is not often used in large amounts and there is relatively heavy emphasis on poaching, steaming and braising, as well as stir-frying. Restaurants serving Chiu Chow dishes in Hong Kong rely on quality, acquired through experience, much like the Lenton Brae winery in the Margaret River wine region.

At Pak Loh Chiu Chow Seafood in North Point (2577-1163) I had Chiu Chow food and five of Lenton Brae's wines with winery owner/winemaker Edward Tomlinson. Son of the founders, he grew up "steeped in wine" so to speak.

"Since my parents started the winery in 1989, it's been understood that I would be closely involved. My dad is an architect and they wanted a winery that is both eco-friendly and enjoyable to live in too, so we have many beautiful aspects - such as lead light windows to capture the effect of the sun's rays as they filter through the vines, and a viewing platform that offers a panoramic view of the Willyabrup Valley and from where the winery operations can be safely observed," he said, adding, "We are an architectural icon of this area of Australia, and Lenton Brae was heritage listed for its architectural significance in 1998 by the Busselton Shire Council."

The Pak Loh shares their awareness of environmental issues, as one of five outlets of Chiu Chow restaurant group in Hong Kong, it has garnered several awards for Environment Best Practice.

At the modestly priced restaurant, I enjoyed a wonderfully fresh Lenton Brae 2009 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and an off-dry Late Harvest Semillon 2008 with an assorted Chiu Chow combination platter of crab balls, shrimps and jelly fish. The match was very good, both the food and the wines were well chosen.

I particularly liked the 2009 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc. It has a good weight; by that I mean texture in the mouth; it is not watery or overly oaked but a refreshing wine that can be drunk on its own or with appropriate food. The finish is so important in a wine and this one has a lingering finish of clean tastes influenced by a citrus tinge that keeps the palate asking for more.

In his 2010 Australian Wine Compendium, Australian wine guru James Halliday gave great reviews of the wines and rated the winery as a five (red) star producer, the highest possible accolade and the 2008 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc as the Best of the Best of Variety/wine style. The wine also took a Double Gold in Royal Adelaide Wine Show 2008.

After the platter, I had a rather odd-looking, but great tasting dish of fish with crispy fried bones in deep fried garlic, listed as Fried Sliced Pomfret with Soy Bean Sauce on the menu; it was well matched to the 2008 South Side Chardonnay.

Also tasted with pleasure: a 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon with Smoked Duck and a 2008 Shiraz served with Braised Lamb (yummy) and delicious deep-fried Chicken Stuffed with Ginger Rice.

This was turning out to be an experience to remember and one to have again. Not only because of the food style, but because of the wines. It's the style of wine I particularly like; true to its type and well-made without breaking the bank to buy.

Lenton Brae pioneered the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc style, now renowned as a Margaret River signature blend. Lenton Brae is the only Australian winery that can claim 21 consecutive vintages producing a blend including only Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.

It seems that family-run enterprises such as these have a singular aim: to produce the best they can and make it something to be proud of - after all that's how some of the most celebrated Chateaux in the most famous region for wine in the world, Bordeaux, got started too - and look at how far it has taken them!

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(HK Edition 12/05/2009 page4)