Immortalized and romanticized in director Wong Ka Wai's movies, the Hong Kong-style cafe (cha chaan teng) serves up the renowned "silkstocking" milk tea, the "yin yang" coffee and tea combo, as well as the much-loved pineapple bun with a thick slab of butter. In fact, many see the Hong Kong-style cafe as representative of Hong Kong cuisine for the masses, Hong Kong's answer to Mcdonalds.

For real old school charm, a visit to famous Cheung Hing in Happy Valley is the ultimate cha chaan teng experience. Frequently equated with the nostalgic 1960s, many of these traditional Hong Kong-style cafes have retained their individual character, decor and menu, however, with the changes that come with time, the cha chaan teng concept has not been immune to a 21st century revamp. Anytime Cafe in Causeway Bay takes this successful formula and reinterprets it into a contemporary dining concept.

On first approach to Anytime, the brightly lit decor is a first sign that this is not your old style cha chaan teng. Forget about unf lattering fluorescent lighting, body to body contact seating and a frequently not-too-enticing lived-in interior, Anytime is all about modern sleek and chic. This cafe is awash in a happy bright color scheme of fresh green, white and yellow. Targeting the younger generation, glass doors, contemporary furniture and a catchy young vibe spells modernity.

At busy hours, the room is bustling with action and activity, but instead of the usual love-hate relationship with old-school wait staff usually found at traditional cha chaan tengs, Anytime is about efficient young staff, who rush around with a smile. Once seated, a glance at the menu will confirm that food here at Anytime has gone 21st century. This may be casual dining, but international is more the name of the game.

The classics are well represented in the Anytime menu. Hong Kongstyle milk tea, the mixed coffee and tea "Yin Yang", pineapple buns with chilled butter, and ham and fried egg sandwich are the unmistakable staples; however, befitting to an audience of the 21st century, the menu goes on to include dishes fromaround the world. Starters feature a gathering of different nations, offering up Singapore-style Pan Fried Turnip Cake, American-inspired Deep Fried Onion Rings, or even French classics, Baked Escargots or Lobster Bisque with Puff Pastry.

Main dishes continue their travel around the world, of which Southeast Asian mains include Indonesian Fried Rice, Nasi Goreng, Malaysian Laksa, Chiang Mai Green Curry Duck Breast with Lychee or Thai-style Lemon Grass Fried Rice. Anytime goes European, featuring Italian pasta dishes, such as Fettuccine with Chorizo, or Angel Hair with Norwegian Salmon and Mushroom with Cream Sauce. And if all this sounds a bit too international for your taste, then order the signature dishes, Hong Kong classics such as the Hainan Chicken Rice, Baked Pork Chop with Rice, or Fish Ball Rice Noodles.

Taking into consideration modern craze for juice bars, Anytime offers up a good selection of freshly squeezed fruit juices, encompassing the usual mainstream fruits, as well as nontypical choices, such as pineapple, kiwi, spinach and celery. And if fruit juices and fruit teas are not enough to satisfy your sweet tooth, then give the international dessert choices a try here at Anytime. Go Chinese with the Baked Sago Pudding with Lotus Paste, or go western with the Creme Brulee or Warm Chocolate Pudding. Last but not least, the Banana Spilt should satisfy those looking for a nostalgic dessert.

Anytime is an upscale version of the Hong Kong-style cafe, dishing up quality food at decent prices. Traditionalists would bemoan the reinterpretation of this old school classic, but this modern cafe is all about continuing with the cha chaan teng philosophy of serving up comfort food any time during the day. Anytime lives by its name. This Cha Chaan Teng of the 21st century is all about good food, at any time.

(HK Edition 12/17/2008 page4)