Hong Kong restaurant goers are no strangers to the wide variety of Japanese cuisine offered in Hong Kong. Tempura, sushi, ramen or yakitori, the choices are endless; however, to real gourmands, the ultimate representation of Japanese fine dining is surely the art of Kaiseki. This multiple course Japanese dinner encompasses all forms of Japanese cooking, sashimi, stewed dishes, fried dishes and many more, each dish made to appeal to all of the diners' senses in terms of taste, form, texture and appearance.

The general perception of kaiseki dining is a formal affair, however, a meal out at Itamae Kappo Hayashi is a relaxed, yet highly refined dining experience. Located within the heart of Causeway Bay, this traditional Japanese establishment has a hidden gem quality to it. Diners stepping into this small restaurant are instantly greeted by a soothing palette of light wood colours and the welcoming smiles of the staff.

Decorated in typical traditional Japanese style, clean lines and beige surroundings take the intimidation out of kaiseki dining, and customers are easily brought to ease. The overall effect is that of an intimate, yet sophisticated, dining experience. Tables are kept small, usually seating two to four guests and discreetly hidden throughout the restaurant. A private tatami room, which seats up to six guests, is located behind an unassuming screen, while at the other end of the room is a counter table, where the chef shows off his cutting skills to a clientele with highly demanding taste buds.

Hushed voices can be heard throughout the restaurant, the dominating language being Japanese. In fact, all diners at Itamae Kappo Hayashi seem to be Japanese, a good sign to those in the search for an authentic Japanese dining experience. The second sign to newcomers that a meal at Hayashi will prove memorable is the arrival of a spectacular menu. Spectacular, not in terms of presentation, but in terms of the dishes on offer. The list runs long.

All food at Itamae Kappo Hayashi is about freshness and seasonal offerings. The key to the art of kaiseki dining, seasonal dishes on offer vary according to the freshest items currently available on the market. Diners can either opt for the Omakase Kaiseki Menu by placing the fate of your taste buds in the hands of the chef, or to simply play a game of pick and choose.

To fickle food lovers, Hayashi offers the perfect solution as diners can choose from a large variety of small dishes. The array of choices ranges from small starter dishes, hot pot rice or a large choice of main dishes, each one an art form in itself. An example of seasonal small starter dishes may include mini stewed taros dressed with yuzu, stewed egg plant, tofu skewers coated with miso paste, all of which are presented as an artwork in itself, delicately prepared, small and refined.

Moving onto the next course, sashimi and sushi is extremely fresh, including a highly colourful humble-sized chirashi sushi bowl, a delight to behold. A powerful dish to order is the Japanese Hamburger Patty cooked in a red wine sauce reduction. Packing flavour with a punch, this dish is a guaranteed winner. Best of all, given that portions are small here, multiple dishes and tasting are highly encouraged. By the time you have journeyed through multiple courses, it is most likely that dessert tasting is low on the priority scale. Dessert choices are far from overwhelming here at Hayashi, offering the usual Japanese ice cream flavours, but it is best to ask the waitress to recommend any special seasonal Japanese fruits on offer. On the day of our visit, persimmons proved the perfect end to an soul-satisfying meal.

All in all, a dinner at Itamae Kappo Hayashi is sure to leave you smiling. The waitresses here are extremely willing to help with recommending seasonal dishes, and highly accommodating. The environment is relaxing and refined, and the food is top-notch. Prices may not be the cheapest but given that even run-of-the-mill restaurants are charging wallet-abusive prices these days, at least diners get their monies worth at Hayashi. Reservations are highly recommended, as local Japanese seem to have found the answer to their food prayers at this delightful establishment.

(HK Edition 12/03/2008 page4)