An open-air food stall in Shek Kip Mei. Photos by Edmond Tang

On a sunny autumn afternoon, Alan Cheung parks his car on the roadside in Tai Hang. As Cheung takes his seats at one of the foldable tables at the food stall, the owner emerges from behind the green-painted steel kitchen, ready to take Cheung's order.

"Dining at dai pai dongs (open-air food stalls) has been an integral part of my growing up in Hong Kong," the 29-year-old noted. "These food stalls are cheap and convenient, with a rowdy yet friendly atmosphere. All these qualities are distinctive of our culture."

For Cheung and many Hongkongers, the government's new hawker license plan has ignited hopes for keeping some of their collective memory alive. The call to save dai pai dongs, ice-cream vans and vendors has received considerable public support.

Local embrace

Among the 28 existing dai pai dongs in Hong Kong, Lan Fong Yuen stands out for its 50 years of history, and its famed milk tea and pork chop buns. Its second-generation owner Lam Chun-chung is relieved that his family business can live on.

Under the government's proposal, which was launched in June, the license of an operating dai pai dong can be passed onto an immediate family member of the license holder with the endorsement of the district council.

"My family is so glad about it," Lam contended. "Ten years ago, my brother and I approached the government about the possibility of inheriting the license from our aged father. We're rejected as it could only be transferred to the license holder's spouse."

Seventy-three-year-old Yip, owner of a dai pai dong in Sham Shui Po, also looks forward to passing the business over to her children. The dai pai dong was a token of love left by her husband, who passed away over 30 years ago.

"We founded it together. I raised our four children on its earnings, after my husband was gone," Yip recalled. "We're rooted in the Sham Shui Po community. Our family business will pass on from one generation to the next."

The sense of community is a major appeal of dai pai dongs in the mind of many Hongkongers. Wong Kin-kwong, a 53-year-old teacher, feels that dai pai dongs are essential records of Hong Kong history.

"They carry on the memories of the old times, when many Hongkongers were thriving, low-income workers," Wong remarked. "It's a lot more interesting if we can keep these traces of Hong Kong past for youngsters to see."

Amidst the jazz of commerce and modernity, Eva Philippe, an expatriate who has lived in Hong Kong for 20 years, said that the presence of dai pai dongs preserves the most down-to-earth and local aspects of the city.

"Even in a commercial district like Central, you get glimpses of an older, authentic Hong Kong in the scattered dai pai dongs. They add contrast and intrigue to this urban space. It'd be a shame if they fade out."

Sweet memories

A woman buys soft ice-cream in Central.

The memory of an older Hong Kong has its echoes in the tune of Blue Danube, which reaches us from ice-cream vans that travel around town. The government's plan to reissue licenses for ice-cream vans and ice-cream vendors will keep their ride going.

Currently, there are 16 licensed ice-cream vans and 30 licensed small ice-cream vendors that operate on motorcycles or bicycles. Under the new proposal, new licenses may be issued with a validity of three to five years.

Lam Kai-choi, an ice-cream van driver of 10 years, is delighted to think that the trade can continue. He contended that ice-cream vans have always had a place in everyone's heart since they came to Hong Kong in 1970.

"They remind us of the sweet things in our daily lives, like family outings, school days and romantic dates. Both the old and the young come to my van for soft ice-cream. It's a collective experience we'd like to hold onto."

Agnes Kwan, a 32-year-old marketing professional, is a life-long fan. She remembers the excitement that stirred in her heart when, as a little child, she heard the Blue Danube coming closer and closer outside her windows.

"Soft ice-cream was such a treat for us in those days. Nowadays they're parked in popular tourist spots and don't go around much anymore. It's almost a surprise when we see the red-white-blue vans on the streets," she said.

"The presence of ice-cream vans brings nuance to our city," said Ben Choi, a 35-year-old accountant. "They add a touch of leisure to our hectic life. They're also unobtrusive, as they're just parked on the roadside."

Ice-cream vendors on motorcycles are another nice addition to Hongkongers' outings. While they face overwhelming competition from convenient stores, Leung ping-kwan, an ice-cream vendor, believes there is still a market for the trade.

"There're remote corners and lookouts in Hong Kong with no convenient stores nearby. It's easy for us to reach those places on our motorcycles," Leung explained. "Another option is to station at the entrance of a large park, like the Victoria Park."

Tourist attractions

As the review will be brought to the Legislative Council in 2009, Deputy Secretary for Food and Health Olivia Nip Sai-lan said the proposal aims to conserve dai pai dongs and ice-cream vendors as tourist attractions.

Andrea Ng, a veteran tour guide, thinks that the presence of dai pai dongs is positive for tourism, since they are popular, though not major, attractions for tourists from the States and Europe.

"Dai pai dongs match their imagination of an old Hong Kong," Ng elaborated. "They're a nice touch to the background, when the foreigners enjoy the modern, efficient aspects of Hong Kong."

Man Chong-kwong, a 64-year-old ice-cream vendor, hopes that the conservation plan will be passed and executed promptly, since many of his fellow vendors are anxious about the future of their business.

"I make between HK$6000 to HK$7000 a month, which is better than other low-paying jobs like cleaners. It'll be impossible for me to find another job if I have to quit what I'm doing now," Man said.

Mandy Chow, a 24-year-old resident of Sham Shui Po, points out that the government's proposal, if approved, will pay off as a move toward conservation of the local culture, since it will incur much lower costs than preservation of historical buildings.

"When some of our treasured buildings from the past have already been torn down, preserving dai pai dongs and street vending takes small efforts. We should be allowed to keep that much of our collective memory."

(HK Edition 10/31/2008 page4)