Editor's note: A spate of global tastings against the wines of Bordeaux, has brought renewed attention to the benchmark wine region. Maggie Beale explains the layout of the famed areas.

The Bordeaux wine region guards its centuries-old reputation jealously. And it does it most rigorously at home with a rigid policy on vineyards, production and labelling that has been strictly enforced and monitored by powerful governing bodies in existence for over 150 years.

Bordeaux top drops.

To begin with, a division of departements was initiated almost at once. Situated in the Gironde department of Aquitaine, Bordeaux is divided by the Gironde river into the Left Bank: Medoc, St-Estephe, Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux. And the Right Bank: Saint Emilion, Pomerol, Bourg and Blaye. In addition there's also Graves, south-east of the Medoc, with Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac. Each department has its own appellation and appellation d'origine controlee - laws that dictate everything from time of harvest to permitted winemaking techniques.

What is the difference? Basically, the Left Bank makes more Cabernet Sauvignon based wine and the Right Bank more Merlot based. Red wine predominates in the Graves area along with white wines from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes and also dessert wines. While Sauternes and Barsac are best known for sweet botrytised dessert wines.

Bordeaux wine labels don't name the grapes, it's just assumed everyone knows. But they do include the region on the front label if all the grapes have been harvested in a specific region.

Bordeaux wines range from Grand Cru Class to generic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Suprieur.

The finest red wines of Haut-Medoc in the communes of Margaux, St. Julien, St. Estephe, Pauillac, Moulis and Listrac are powerful, full-bodied, and fruity. Margaux, wines have a fragrant bouquet, finesse and exceptional charm. Top houses are Chateau Margaux and Chateaux Palmer, and Giscours wines are exceptional.

The most dependable commune is St. Julien with its text book down-to-earth cedar-y reds produced in properties such as Ducru Beaucaillou, Leoville-Las-Cases and Leoville Poyferre.

The most famous village of all is Pauillac with three of Medoc's top four Premier Cru Classe, namely Chateaux Lafite Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild and Latour. And Chateaux Comtesse Pichon Longueville Lalande, Lynch-Bages and Pontet Canet. Superbly consistent and very carefully produced, these wines give Bordeaux its reputation.

In Haut-Medoc, St. Estephe wines tend to have deep colour, austere characteristics and long life span. Outstanding estates are Chateaux Cos d'Estournel, Montrose and Calon-Segur.

The smallest of the major appellations Pomerol, is celebrated for velvety Merlot: Petrus, Le-Pin, Le Gay and Vieux Certan. A satellite region, Lalande de Pomerol produces wines that are less powerful, fast maturing, and kinder on budget.

The oldest wine area St. Emilion produces soft, generous and luscious reds with a spicy quality; Clos Fourtet, Chateaux Belair, Canon, Figeauc, Pavie, and Beausejour-Becot with exceptional Premier Grand Cru Classe such as Chateaux Ausone, Angelus and Cheval-Blanc.

Some of Bordeaux's finest dry white wines, made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes, come from the Graves district, notably Chateau La Louviere from the house of Andre Lurton one of the most eminent wine producers of the past half century. They tend to be delicate, fresh, full-flavoured and dry.

Graves reds are spicy with hints of tobacco that are at times earthy. The premier district there is Pessac-Leognan AOC - home to Chateaux Haut-Brion, Carbonnieux and Smith-Haut-Lafite.

The wines of Fronsac - Chateau Les Tonnelles, and Canon-Fronsac such as La Croix, are very much under-rated in Hong Kong. They are perfumed, firm, spicy reds, and good with food.

The appellation 'Graves Superieures AOC' is reserved for botrytis-affected Sauvignon and Semillon (same area as Graves AOC) from the south-east region of Sauternes and Barsac. The name that fairly jumps out at you here is surely the Premier Cru Superieur Ch. d'Yquem. The most highly prized botrytis wine in the world.

The whites of Entre-Deux-Mers are light, crisp, fresh and dry, usually bottled when three or four months old and drunk within the year. The reds, classified as Bordeaux or Bordeaux Suprieur are light and well-balanced. Unlike the bigger wines of Bordeaux, these reds should be drunk within two to three years while they are still showing youthful fruit. Sante!

Maggie Beale can be contacted at: wineexpert1@hotmail.com

(HK Edition 08/05/2008 page4)