When I went to Bhutan during this lunar new year, I was reminded of Andrew Bocelli's heart-melting songs. The Himalayan kingdom with all its serene beauty and tranquility touched my soul the same way the music did.

People say Shangrila is found in the southwest of China's mountainous region. Nestled in the Himalayas, Bhutan is surrounded by China, India, Bangladesh and Nepal. I was struck by the absence of modernity and the local people's genuine hospitality. For those wanting to witness the paradise on earth, or photographers who are looking for things that they thought have disappeared, or civilized travelers that are simply looking for beautiful landscapes, Bhutan is the place. I wanted to see why Bhutan is a land of genuine smiles, a land that claims the highest gross national happiness in the world. A poor country with a population of 70,000 and where an ordinary household earns US$200 a month, Bhutanese people exude much more sustainable happiness .

Bhutan is surrounded by myths and traditions. Cultural heritage and natural environment are treasured everywhere. Local people's simplicity and genuine hospitality amazed me. As a traveler more than a tourist, I learnt to integrate into their life. There was nothing specially arranged for us, particularly when we participated in the local festivals in all these beautiful architecture (Dzongs) - monasteries or administrative centers of their districts. We, the paying guests, woke up very early in the morning. Accompanied by a personal guide, we sat at a square and waited patiently for the worshipping time with local citizens. Even though the dance and performance are sometimes tedious for outsiders, they appeared so authentic. There was no such thing as cable cars when we visited Taktshang Goemba (Tiger's Nest Monastery), one of the most famous monasteries in Bhutan. Built along the cliff 900m above Paro Valley, the monastery is2,500-4,200m above sea-level. Visitors have to trek a few hours to reach there. However, I took a more exciting way by riding a seven-year-old horse, and trudging along the zig-zag mountain trails to the popular wooden teahouse, enjoying the magnificent bird's eye view. Frankly, I have never learnt properly how to halt a horse and I was lost in the mountain's magical beauty.

I rested for a while taking a cup of coffee. I still had to finish climbing the trail through blue pine forests with another hour to the ridge. Suddenly, I started panting and it got to a point where I had to stop to avoid Acute Mountain Sickness. AMS may happen at the height of 3,000m or more, and can even affect trekkers and walkers accustomed to walking at high altitudes. Still, it was absolutely worth it to come this far. It was awesome and majestically beautiful-clear blue sky, flying birds, warm sunshine, snow-capped glacier and the chanting of monks from the temple. This is the most exciting experience for me.

Bhutan is absolutely not for mass tourism. Instead, it is an icon for most discerning travelers. The Royal Government of Bhutan has a policy of "high value, low impact", there is a minimum daily pre-paid tariff over US$250 per day and each guest has to spare time and efforts in communicating directly with a local tour operator to specially tailor his or her own itinerary. You will never see any guides using a loudspeaker or holding a flag for identification in Bhutan. And you will not see any crowds in sightseeing spots either except for during festivals.

Bhutan is a Buddhist country and the people understand very well how to govern a state. They aim at enlightening people with their simplicity and honesty- a way so different from the people who are always guided by materialistic consideration. I was astounded by the Bhutanese people's purity, simplicity and harmony.

The author is the marketing development director of HK Discovery

(HK Edition 03/28/2008 page4)