She is full of spirit, and enthusiasm is written all over her face. She's a bundle of energy and her well manicured looks belie the determination of her character - that is, till you look into her eyes. In fact, your first impression of her is one of wonder. But then you are pulled back to reality, and reality is that she has just opened her third boutique in Hong Kong.

Welcome to ranee_k in Causeway Bay and the world of its young, enterprising, passionate founder and chief designer Ranee Kok. To make it in this business, you need to be passionate, she says, and passion for the art of fashion is one thing that one of Hong Kong's most creative designers has in abundance. Her fledgling design empire has been built on years of hard work, perseverance and devotion.

But as she sits comfortably in the plush surroundings of her new store, it doesn't seem that this wunderkind entered the world of fashion unlike many others. A chance trip to New York during a vacation from her finance and business studies in Canada changed the course of Kok's life and career. "Till then, I had not even thought about fashion or working in the clothing industry," she says. "I had sometimes made clothes for myself or (my) friends, but had never thought of becoming a (full-time) fashion designer." It was while going through the myriad clothes stores in New York's SoHo district that she discovered her love for fashion.

"New York is such a unique place, it's so diverse. It's like a small world. I spent all my time seeing the shops there." Kok's decision was made: she would devote her life in search of a new aesthetic in fashion. What followed were more than three years of perseverance. She started with selling one-off creations directly to clients and graduated to having her designed dresses getting a place in New York's boutiques. Only then did she feel confident enough of opening her own store in Hong Kong.

Kok, who designs only for women, believes it's her unique approach to design and her success in capturing the "feminine essence" that have made her popular and helped expand her business. The ranee_k style is a blend of the East and West, says Kok. Robust, traditional cloths are combined in a variety of colour palettes and cuts to create clothes that reflect both classical Chinese and Western fashions. The combined look is unique and "reflects a femininity" that is lasting and not dictated by seasonal trends.

Kok says: "I like to experiment with different materials and colours. This gives a unique look to my clothes." She draws inspiration from the movies (and the stars) of the 50s, too, and is fascinated by the female characteristics and qualities celebrated in them.

"This dress," she says, holding up one of her latest creations, "can still be worn three or four years from now and (would) still look stylish. My clothes and their good looks last."

Her genuine efforts have earned her a loyal following - which incidentally is growing - of women who have the money and want to express their individuality in ways different from the ordinary. Kok's garments are handmade and often restricted to a small run of two or three pieces. The fewer they are, the greater their attraction and higher their price.

Indeed, Kok believes, the popularity of her SoHo store in Central owes much to the like-minded fashion devotees who frequent it, "looking for an individual style". She is very much "hands on" in running her business, being part of every aspect - from designing and making clothes to promoting her label and designing the interiors of her stores. "I do everything," she says matter-of-factly. Pointing to a wall, she says all the creative inputs for "the artwork" there are hers. She also "chose the timber for the floor".

Being, out of necessity and devotion, the designer, store manager, interior decorator and production manager of ranee_k, Kok nevertheless follows a management style that focuses more on building a brand image rather than boosting production. Although Kok has part of her clothes made on the mainland, a large percentage of her collection is hand-made by a team of local tailors. And with her production line up and running, she is free to concentrate all her energies on her customers.

The references to her experiences in New York are pervasive. "This business is all about relationships," she says. "I am here all the time. My customers can walk in to the store any time and talk to me. They can meet other customers and form a social network. They become friends and discuss many things, including, of course, fashion. It becomes a lifestyle as well. And (through this) people get to know about my clothes." The strategy seems to be working - the ranee_k label is on the move, with her new store joining her Sogo Club and flagship SoHo boutique.

Kok is excited about the possibilities when the talk veers round to diversification of her business. Apart from developing and expanding her own collection continuously, she creates one-off items for customers. She designs for a handful of Hong Kong labels, too, that seem to be making a mark on the international market. "I also want to do more ready-to-wear and accessories," she says, beaming. "There are so many areas (of the business) which a designer can develop. It's a matter of going ahead and doing it."

While expanding into the mainland is a definite future possibility, Kok is happy, at the moment, to focus on her Hong Kong operations. For, a foray into the mainland would involve the nation's capital which, Kok believes, is more steeped in Chinese culture. "Beijing is a wonderful place. It has a traditional quality that Shanghai doesn't," she says, trying to drive home her point.

Kok believes there's no typical Hong Kong style, instead there are some essential "characteristics" associated with living in this city. The fashion that embodies these characteristics could be termed "a Hong Kong style". In women's clothing, this includes "a blend of oriental and occidental designs and materials; clothings that give a confident look without being overt or obvious and a femininity that has an understated and timeless elegance".

The city's fashion tastes, she says, are becoming more eclectic, an indicator of the city's increasing worldiness and sophistication. "In Hong Kong, there is such a diverse range of tastes today - not as much as New York, but we are getting there."

These are good times for fashion designers and the fashion industry as a whole. Recent figures show strong export earnings for Hong Kong garments and accessories, with growths in major markets like the US, Japan and Europe. The government on its part, is committed to improving the city's creative industries, and this means an increased awareness of the value of good design. Coupled with government-supported events such as the Hong Kong Fashion Week and World Boutique Hong Kong, this could create more interest among the city's fashion and manufacturing professionals. At the same time, clothing firms are taking renewed interest in developing original design and brand manufacturing businesses to move up the value chain that eventually would bring in more profit. And for this, Hong Kong needs better, professional fashion designers.

Fashion designers can succeed no matter where they are, Kok believes. "If you really want it (success), then you should go ahead and do it," she says. Humbly, but assertively, she says "there is not much difference between Hong Kong and New York (when it comes to making a mark). In New York, the culture is more diverse and people are more willing to experiment, but no matter where they are, designers face the same challenges." Doesn't this add more value to her success?

And what is her advice to budding and wannabe designers? To succeed, she says, a designer needs to work hard and be passionate about what he/she is doing. And having some luck is not a bad thing, after all. "I was fortunate sometimes to get an opportunity, but I always took it."

Young designers "should not be afraid of failures... they should experiment and take chances. They shouldn't let anything hold them back." The success mantra? "It's simple," says Kok. "Follow your dream."

(HK Edition 01/28/2005 page4)