The long-lived reds of Cotes du Rhone are popular in some of the better restaurants of Hong Kong this winter. Suitable for many cuisines except very spicy dishes, Rhone Valley reds have the depth and character to accompany meats, including game, oily sea fish and cheese sauces.

The coveted appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape, home to some of France's great vineyards, lies almost in the shadow of the majestic ruins of 14th century Palais du Pape (Palace of the Pope). And it's here that Maison M. Chapoutier makes exemplary wines on some of the country's best vineyards, and also in Hermitage and Cote Rotie.

Winemaker Michel Chapoutier was just 26 when he took over from his father in 1987 but has continued to revitalize the fortunes of the winery. This is rewarding for many wine lovers who have drooled over the magnificent Crozes-Hermitage made by his grandfather.

Since he took over the reins, Chapoutier has used the best of his grandfather's traditional winemaking techniques and vineyard management. And it shows in the wines he makes. For, not every winemaker believes wine is made in the vineyard and not in the winemakers' laboratory. "Great wines are made in the vineyards, not in the cellars. Indeed, we ought to go back to the soil and let it dictate. The winemaker must subordinate himself to the total terroir of his vineyard and let nature make the wine," he says.

Chapoutier has done away with the need for chemicals by meticulously looking after the good health of the vines throughout the year. And he cherishes the stony soil (referred to as pudding stones) the vines grow in as well as the true meaning of the term AOC, Appellation d'Origin Controlee, which refers to the management of clearly defined and protected growing land.

Chapoutier has other vineyards too - in Australia and at Banyuls, Roussillon, Coteaux dAix, France. The 62-hectare Chateau des Estubiers is in the appellation of C'eaux du Tricastin, famous for its magnificent stony soil, now being cultivated in accordance with biodynamic farming practices. To get the best from the legendary terroir of his vineyards, he carries out extensive geological research.

Charpoutier concentrates more on single grape varieties instead of the rather odd blends his father Max favoured. The Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernardine 2001 is 100 per cent Grenache. Matured in oak barrels for 12 to 15 months, the wine is almost deep purple in colour, complex with the first flavours of black currants and plums followed by morello cherry, liquorice, cinnamon and a lovely hint of roasted coffee on the finish, which is medium to long length.

Grenache is not an easy grape, needing as it does careful selection by AOC law at harvest time, a time consuming 100 per cent destemming and a sensitivity to oxidation in fermentation.

The comprehensive wine list at Cafe des Artistes in Lan Kwai Fong offers a selection of Rhone Valley wines, some of which are available in half bottles. Typically, the La Bernardine costs HK$368 for a half-bottle and HK$795 for a full bottle, and Chapoutier La Mordore Cotes Rotie 1995, a richly satisfying wine and indubitably the star of the Rhone on this list, comes for HK$2,398 a bottle.

At the Banyuls vineyard near Perpignan, Chapoutier makes a naturally sweet, fortified wine from 90 per cent Grenache. The 1998 vintage is also available at Cafe des Artistes, 500 ml for HK$430.

Seasonal specialities at Cafe des Artistes include the chef's magnificent souffles and one of the best Foie Gras dishes I've had in a long time. With a whiff of cloves, raspberry and tobacco, the Chapoutier La Mordore Cotes Rotie 1995 is excellent with the French Duck Breast, Duck Leg Confit or the roasted Lamb Saddle.

And the red-wine braised Beef heeks and baked Burgundy Snails were perfectly accompanied by the Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernardine 2001.

(HK Edition 01/14/2005 page16)