How did the Scots of yore measure the water (oops! sorry), the elixir of life? In pegs, pints or pails. Wrong! The answer is blowing in abundance in the winter wind. Nip - that is equivalent to a shot and, in a short glass is usually served, unless it comes with a meal when it may be diluted with spring water. Or, the quaich - a silver or pewter vessel very much like a sommelier's taste du vin but with two small handles, traditionally shared by two persons.

Hold on. What are we talking about? Water or elixir? Or, whisky? Yes, this week let's get heady with the taste of whisky - the drink that got its name from the Gaelic "uisge beatha", meaning "the water of life".

The Single Malt Scotch (whisky when distilled and matured in Scotland for at least three years is called Scotch) is the most coveted among all of Scotland's products. It's the sovereign of single malts and distilled in a plump pot still from peat, malted barley and pure spring or deep-well water, and aged for a minimum of five years. The product of a single distillery, it's a pricier drink and is also used in some blends for an added cachet.

Glenfiddich is by far the most popular single malt brand, followed by Glenlivet and The Macallan. The island brands of Talisker, Lagavulin and Laphroig from the Isle of Islay have created a niche of their own, though.

Glenlivet and The Macallan are from Speyside in the Highlands which has highest concentration of distilleries. Exported worldwide, Glenlivet has elegant, almost delicate, flavours with a long lingering aftertaste and a medium body with soft malty hints. Versatile, it can be drunk with or without water, on its own or with food - best with braised rabbit, roast pork or suckling pig, or, for those seeking something different, with the horse meat sausages at Pasha in Cleveland St, Causeway Bay.

The Macallan is a sophisticated malt, aged for 10, 15 or 25 years in old sherry casks, that give it its unique mellow flavour and cinnamon aroma. Very smooth, long finish, The Macallan tastes wonderful with raisins and spice, and great with grilled pork chops.

The highly prized, pale-coloured Glenfiddich is smooth, light bodied, dry on the palate with distinctively fragrant aromas. Also distilled in Speyside, it is a bestseller in Asia - every second bottle of Single Malt sold in the continent is Glenfiddich. It's a perfect match to rack of lamb and porterhouse steaks at Knutsford Steak & Oyster Bar in TST - they have a very good selection of whiskies there.

An unblended malt, Laphroig - like its neighbour, Lagavulin - is best taken neat or with just a little water to fully enjoy the subtle nuances of a distinguished malt. Although there are certain similarities between Laphroig and Lagavulin - peaty, smoky and full bodied - the concluding flavours and mouthfeel are different. Laphroig is ideal before meals as an aperitif, perhaps with a little water, while Lagavulin is perfect on its own as an after dinner digestif.

Talisker, on the other hand, despite being peaty and full bodied is more aromatic. It is one of the few malts I would drink with a little added ice, and to me it is the best complement to roast venison.

Unlike single malt, blended whisky is a melding of malted and unmalted barley mixed with other cereals. A standard blend can have as many as 50 different whiskies - each of which may have been matured for five, eight or twelve years. The most popular brands are Johnny Walker Red Label and Famous Grouse, both very popular with the Indian community in Hong Kong, especially in favoured watering places such as Harry's Bar in Holiday Inn. Johnny Walker Red Label is perfect for mixing with soda, water, ginger ale or soft drinks. It is reddish in colour, full bodied and clean tasting.

Refreshing, smooth and aromatic, Famous Grouse has a mellow sweetness which makes it suitable to drink with any simple snack, from hamburgers to fish-n-chips. It is the biggest selling blended whisky in Scotland and a choice accompaniment to pub suppers.

(HK Edition 01/07/2005 page22)