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'Dior not war' the theme in Paris
John Galliano transformed his catwalk into a political platform and the message — like the clothing that carried it — was powerful: "Dior, Not War."
"It's the way I'm feeling. I think we're all feeling that, aren't we?" the designer said backstage. "That John Lennon song could have been written yesterday. I mean — imagine."
If politics was the backstage buzz, it was only one segment of a stunningly successful Christian Dior ready-to-wear line for spring-summer 2005 that was otherwise focused on femininity, colors and fun.
Unlike many of Galliano's presentations of the past, which were more about spectacle than clothes, this one was extremely accessible: No private investigator required to find items that were truly ready to wear.
The collection flashed back to looks from the sophisticated 40s, the playful 50s, the politically charged 60s and the glitzy 80s — always infusing yesteryear with modern day sassiness.
The silhouette was natural and feminine, with chiffon sundresses and lacy or ribbon trim used to hem skirts that fell either above or directly below the knee. Other skirts were cute, short and tutu-like.
Among the celebrities watching from the front row were actresses Milla Jovovich, Jane Seymour, Isabelle Adjani and Julie Delpy.
Dresses were silky, pretty and airy, with floral prints in chiffon layered tiers and lightly ruffled open necklines.
Flower power echoed elsewhere — embroidered in flat sequins on denim, crocheted onto knit dresses, or boldly printed on colorful T-shirts.
Denim was used liberally, but always spruced up with couture touches, like in a slim fitting skirt suit of light denim and a cream colored boucle.
Girly fun with colors — hot pink, turquoise, lavender — was the message of an almost cartoony collection of summer tops, paired at times with denim or pleated skirts over knee-high striped stockings.
The theme carried over into shoes, which came multicolored like a pair of pink and red stiletto boots with pompoms.
Bags and sunglasses were the other big accessories to note. Dior's wildly popular asymmetrical saddle bag was nearly nonexistent in favor or a more low key and classical clutch, almost recalling the Kelley bag. And, the shades soon to be ubiquitous are bigger and wider beetle-eyed wraps than before with mirrored lenses in sunny colors like hot pink, silver, turquoise, red.
"Ultra femininity" was the theme at Vivienne Westwood, who drew inspiration from 18th century French painter Francois Boucher. The invitation was a copy of "Summer," his classical pastoral scene of three women lounging in the woods.
The collection included pretty cotton floral prints on asymmetrical bustiers and sundresses. Cotton pastel skirts came with eyelet trim.
Evening wear sparkled either in gold and silver lame or in elegant classical pastel silk gowns with voluminous skirts and trains.
But, the past wasn't the only inspiration. Dresses also came with bold computerized prints and geometric designs created by extra flaps and folds. Baggy blouses were paired with a harness-like bottom that created a pair of shorts with attitude. Shoes, designed by Westwood's husband, Andreas Kronthaler, were most fun in stilettos with so much strapping they became airy summer boots.
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