It was almost 9 am on Saturday. Yuexiu Park in downtown Guangzhou, the
capital city of South China's Guangdong Province was already bathed in sunshine.
Huang Linguo, 65, and his 7-year-old grandson, arrived at the park where
people of his age, with caps and bags, were slowly gathering in front of a hill,
breaking the morning quiet.
Ten minutes later Huang heard a song sung by a woman of his age:
"My elderly brother, you are so young and energetic that you come to the
hill."
Huang responded using the same melody:
"My younger sister, I am so happy to meet you here today, because we were
once in the same family."
Other elderly men and women joined in, throwing out their chests and holding
their heads high.
They were mostly Hakkas. They were singing Hakka hill songs.
Huang and the others sang dozens of songs, with short intervals in between.
Huang is obviously very good at generating a fun atmosphere among the singers
with his little quips between songs.
"Come on, smile and start singing and dancing," he said. "It will make you
feel like you're young Hakkas again."
After a couple of hours, Huang announced that the singing party was
over, but people were reluctant to leave.
It was already well past noon when the park finally quieted down. But Huang
promised that they would be back on the 12th of next month to share the
excitement and happiness of singing Hakka hill songs.
"We have made a promise to come to this hill in the park on the 12th of every
month because we enjoy each other's company, but most importantly, because we
like Hakka hill songs and we miss our hometowns," said Huang.
"For us Hakkas, our happiest time is celebrating what we have achieved in our
work, by singing the songs of our hometowns," said Huang.
"When I miss my hometown I usually sing our songs," added Huang.
A Hakka, Huang came from Meizhou, a city in eastern Guangdong Province, where
hundreds of thousands of Hakka people live today.
But actually he knows little about his hometown since he, together with his
father, were forced to leave and settle in Guangzhou to make a living when he
was very young, according to Huang.
But he doesn't spend much time thinking about the past, as for many Hakkas
memories of the past are not clear. But they all have a common sense of the
difficult days gone by.
Historical resources in the Guangdong Department of Culture show that the
Hakkas are a unique group of Han Chinese who originally lived in the Yellow
River area.
Due to the pressure resulting from the influx of other ethnic groups from the
northwest, north and northeast of China, these original settlers gradually
migrated southward and settled in Jiangxi, Fujian and Guangdong provinces. Some
sailed across the Taiwan Straits to Taiwan Province.
As a result, they were called Hakka, or kejia in standard Chinese (meaning
"guest families") by the local people in the areas where they settled.
One of the earliest migrant groups in China, the Hakka people intermarried
with other ethnic groups and adopted their cultures over their long history of
movement going back more than 2,000 years.
As a late comer to places already occupied by other groups, Hakkas usually
had to struggle and survive on the poorest land. Thus Hakka people are well
known for their perseverance even under the most adverse conditions.
But they are noted for many other things as well. Through their 2,200 years
of history they have preserved certain cultural characteristics as seen in their
customs, food and spoken language.
Of all the peoples of China, Hakkas are among the most steadfast in keeping
the traditions.
Hakka hill songs, which are usually sung by a man and a woman, are one of the
most famous aspects of Hakka culture.
There seem to be relatively few melodies. The same tunes are used for a
number of individual lyrics of varying subject matter. These may be love
ballads, question-and-answer riddles, tragedies endured by their people in times
gone by, and observations about live.
Hou Zhou, vice-director of the Cultural Office of Hongqiao Street, said that
the Hakkas have been gathering in Yuexiu Park to enjoy their songs ever since
the 1960s.
Hence the hill in the park has acquired a nickname: "Hakka Song Hill."
The Hakkas living around Hongqiao Street organized the Hakka Hill Songs
Association in 1996, which has attracted Hakka hill song lovers from across the
city, Hou said.
Zhang Bo, 70, is not a Hakka, but he gradually developed a love for Hakka
hill songs when he came to the park and met Hakka people 10 years ago.
"Although I am not a Hakka, the songs remind me of the old days when I left
home," Zhang said.
Zhang, a resident of Guangzhou, left his home to work as a sailor when he was
only 16.
"My sailing experience at an early age has given me something in common with
Hakka people, and the songs make me feel even closer to them," he said.
According to Hou, thousands of Hakka people, like Huang, left their homes to
go to Guangzhou in the early 1960s, with the hope of finding a better life. And
most of them settled around Hongqiao Street.
Hou added that the government of Yuexiu District of Guangzhou decided early
in April to organize a fund for Hakka hill songs development, in an effort to
enhance the cultural development of Hakka in the city.
"The songs help bring more and more Hakka people together because they share
a deep love for Hakka culture and tradition," Hou said.