Her rosy cheeks glowing, Zhang Weiqiu, 23, an interpreter with the Lijiang Cultural Museum, said she misses her deceased grandparents very much, especially during the Spring Festival holidays.

In the past, she and all her relatives would gather together on Chinese New Year's Eve at her grandparents' home in Longpan village, in the Yulong (Jade Dragon) Naxi Autonomous County, 60 kilometres from Lijiang.

She said the Naxis celebrate life with many festivals. Some festivals coincide with those of the Han people, such as the Spring Festival (the Chinese New Year's Day).

Others are of their own ethnic origin. One of the most important is the Sanduojie Festival - an extremely spirited gathering that takes place twice a year, in the second and eighth lunar months. During these festivals, the Naxi people hold horse races and dances or go out for picnics.

Other popular festive occasions include the Dongbangjie Festival on the 15th day of the first lunar month, the Jiandangjie Festival on the eighth day of the second lunar month, the Dragon King's Festival in the third lunar month, the Torchlight Festival in the sixth lunar month, and the Mules and Horses Fair in the seventh lunar month.

"Spring Festival is the most important festival for us Naxi people. It's a time to offer sacrifices to our ancestors, pay respects to the elderly and enjoy the happiness of family gatherings," said Zhang.

"I wouldn't for anything miss these wonderful family gatherings."

It has been several years since her grandparents passed away, but the big family gathering on Spring Festival Eve - a party that includes all of the brothers of Zhang's father, Zhang Shuxun, and their children and wives - is still held every year.

"Sometimes there are more than 50 of us," recalls Zhang.

"And the traditional customs are still followed," she emphasized.

Respect for gods and ancestors

One of the key parts of the Spring Festival for Naxi people is the ritual ceremony for gods and ancestors, according to Zhang.

The ritual ceremonies of the families are pretty much private affairs, attended only by family members, she explained.

The danian sanshi (the last day of the old year, or Spring Festival Eve) is always the busiest day of the whole holiday time.

"Everybody gets up earlier than usual. The men are responsible for cleaning the entire house and the women are kept very busy preparing the food for the coming evening's feast, as well as the food for the ritual ceremony. Everything should be ready by noon."

The animals for sacrifice include chickens, ducks, fish and a pig - the four major meats used in the local cuisine.

Mushroom and green vegetables are also prepared, which are plentiful in local markets, with the place's year-round spring-like climate. Over 20 different dishes will be prepared.

While the grown-ups are busy with their preparations for the rituals, the children have fun playing games and letting off firecrackers - "one of my best memories of my childhood," Zhang recalled.

"The whole morning is a time of endless restraint for the children, who can see all the delicacies but are not allowed to taste or touch them. Even to smell them is taboo."

The food must be completely pure, clean and untouched before the rituals, explained Zhang.

The ritual ceremony normally begins at 3 pm. The first step is to pay respect to the ancestors. All the family members kneel down before the family altar table.

One of the most important sacrificial foods on the table is the meat from the pig's head, which is believed to bring good luck for the new year.

Afterward this initial ceremony, the members of the family all walk down to the river that flows by the village, to pay respect to the god of water, whom they believe, brings them clean water and good fortune.

Then the most spirited dinner party of the year begins. Both women and men dress in their traditional ethnic costumes.

"We waste no time in indulging ourselves in the mouthwatering food and fragrant wines until everyone is tipsy with joy," said Zhang.

The party goes on until the morning of the first day of the New Year, when another round of rituals will be held in front of our ancestors' tombs.

"There, I feel that I can sense the presence of my beloved grandparents again," Zhang recalled.

Some changes

It seems that all the traditions are well kept except one, added Zhang. In the Naxi culture, wives are in charge of the work of making a living as well as all the house work, while husbands lose themselves in their beloved art work, as they are famous for their talent in music, calligraphy and painting.

"In this kind of life, men bear no responsibility," said Zhang.

So as a form of thanks for all their hard work, it is traditional that wives never get up early on the first day of Spring Festival. It is the husband's job to make a beautiful breakfast for his wife.

However, this tradition has gradually changed in recent years, as some husbands are starting to work in the city, said Zhang.

"In my family, mum prepares breakfast on the first day of Spring Festival, because dad has a job in a local company," Zhang said.

"Although mum doesn't complain about it, I still think it's unfair! Mum does all the housework every day. A nice breakfast prepared by dad would bring a breath of fresh air into her heart!"

Zhang said she is going to marry a Naxi young man this year.

She has made a deal with her future husband, whom she wants to remain anonymous, that he will make the sweetest and most important breakfast in the year for her after their marriage.

(China Daily 01/26/2004 page5)