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Nanjing Yunjin ( 2003-12-02 16:22) (chinadaily.com.cn)
Nanjing Yunjin (brocade) has a history of over 1500 years with regard to the hand-weaving technology. Its wooden-loom Zhuang Hua represents the history of silk weaving lasting for over 4700 years. This is the traditional hand-weaving technology by means of human memory that cannot be replaced by machines, the only technology of its kind handed down to the modern times in a history of over 3000 years concerning brocade production. Najing Yunjin technology, always taught by hand and oral instruction, is handed down from generation to generation. Among ancient silk fabrics, "Jin" represents the fabric of the highest technology. Nanjing Yunjin epitomizes the brocade craftsmanship over the past years. Ranking first among three major kinds of brocade in ancient China, it was a royal tribute respectively in the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. Due to its rich connotation of culture, science and technology, it is regarded by experts as the last milestone in the history of brocade craftsmanship in ancient China, publicly acknowledged as an "Oriental gem" and a "Wonder of China". It is also one of the most precious historic and cultural heritages of the Chinese nation and the world. Nanjing Yunjin is woven by a traditional Da Hua Lou draw-loom, 5.6 meters long, 1.4 meters wide and 4 meters high, through coordinated manual operation of a Zhuang Hua worker and a weaver. The draw-loom is made up of 1924 parts. The Zhuang Hua worker, sitting on the top of the loom, is responsible for lifting the wrap while the weaver, sitting under the loom, is in charge of weaving the weft, applying gold-threads and colors. As Yunjin was specially used to weave the dragon-robes and official clothes for a long time, its production was conducted at all costs for perfection. As a result, its designs are featured by colorful varieties, big patterns, beautiful shapes, gorgeous and bold colors, particularly golden color, free color matching and changeable tints. The art of Yunjin has reached the peak since its craftsmanship has brought the hand-woven techniques to a point of perfection as well as the color matching and weaving techniques to a new height. The wooden-loom ZhUang Hua with hand-woven technology is the only remainder of that epitomizes the achievements of brocade weaving under this special condition. In particular, Zhaungjin, Zhauang Cai and Zhaung Kongque Yu as royal utilities are featured by the three-dimensional effect in relief and that their glamour of expressing the aesthetic realm, culture and art reflect the unique cultural and mental pursuit of Chinese nation, hence demonstrating the integration of science, technology and aesthetics. The cultural and artistic styles of Nanjing Yunjin can be bogged down into the following aspects: the charm of the entire artistic tableau, the gorgeousness of harmonious halo, the exquisiteness of the principle for the creation of weaving technology and the unusual beauty of the patterns symbolizing auspiciousness. Its styles and the school it represents are rare both in China and the world.
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