Every one who knows of my trip to Mount Putuo, a small and amazing isle in the Zhoushan Archipelago in East China's Zhejiang Province, remarked how lucky I was, as it is one of those places where everyone should go at least once in their life.

One of the four sacred mountains of Buddhism, Mount Putuo, the only one that lies in the sea, boasts a stunningly beautiful vista whatever the time of the year.

A 15-minute speed boat ride took me and several others from Shenjiamen, a well-known fishing port on the Zhoushan Archipelago, to the wonderful isle where we arrived at dusk.

On arrival, we were met by a group of Buddhist monks wearing their distinctive grey or dark-yellow robes and each carrying a cloth wrapper. Many were young, and some bespectacled, I later discovered they were students at the Buddhist Academy located there.

The neat Xilin Hotel that we stayed in is just beside the Puji Temple, the biggest temple on the island. Two large pools covered with lotus flowers and two pretty pavilions with eaves curving upwards at the edges set a scene of tranquility and harmony in front of the temple. In the glow of sunset, the pools, the pavilions, as well as the temple were all bathed with a soft light.

The front door of the temple was tightly closed and remains that way I was told, unless "emperors" come or on the occasion of major Buddhist events, such as the nomination of a new abbot. "That small side door is open to pilgrims and tourists on normal days," said Liang Jiangang, our guide.

But as it was already close to dark, the temple was closed. "You have enough time to observe the temple tomorrow," the guide said.

Magnet for pilgrims

We were woken at 3:30 am the next morning, to attend zaoke (morning prayers). The guide had forewarned us on the way that the zaoke would start at 4:30. As we made our way to the Puji Temple my eyes were still dim with sleep.

But I soon came round when I saw the crowd of people already waiting at the side door carrying crammed bags of offerings they had prepared.

Just as I was puzzling about why people gathered here so early, I was told that pilgrims believed that to be the first person to burn the joss sticks in front of the Guanyin Buddha would be rewarded by a priority position on the mercy list of Guanyin. That meant their prayers and requests would have the best chance of being granted.

The door was only about three metres wide. About 10 people formed a line pressing their bodies tightly up against the wooden door. The people waiting behind them naturally fanned out. Any sound coming from inside the door caused a stir among the waiting throng.

At 4 am, it finally opened and the pilgrims poured into the inner courtyard.

Some of them surrounded a big bronze incense burner in front of the main hall of the temple and lit their joss sticks, while others gathered in front of the still closed door leading into the main hall.

Following the local guide, we were led around to the back door of the main hall and allowed to enter before the waiting pilgrims flooded in.

An 8.8-metre-high Guanyin Buddha reposes in the middle of the solemn and huge hall with six large yellow canopies with Buddhist scriptures hung around.

About five minutes after we entered, the door of the main hall opened. The ensuing scene left me astonished. Those who had brought offerings of food and fruits had within moments piled them on the altar, while others placed their prayer mats down, covering almost every available piece of floor space.

Just before the start of zaoke, a monk named Wu Gen who had let us in the back door warned that photography was forbidden during the holy ritual, as it is believed the flash lights would profane the sanctity of Buddha.

The restless crowd suddenly fell silent as about 40 monks processed in single file and took up their positions to the right of the Buddha.

As the monks began chanting scriptures, the pilgrims first clasped their hands and then knelt down with their hands heavenswards and heads touching the floor. This was repeated over and over in time with the monk's rhythmic chanting.

A young woman standing beside me said she had come with her aunt from Jinhua of Zhejiang Province. They attend the ritual at least five times a year, she explained.

"I get up at 1 am just to occupy a good position in the hall," said the young woman, a first year college student.

The prayers lasted for about 90 minutes without pause. Wisps of incense swirled in the air in front of the main hall, adding a solemn and mysterious aura to the ancient place and the sacred ritual.

According to Wu Gen, the daily schedule for monks there is fixed. They get up at 4 am and go to bed no later than 7 pm. Breakfast is served at 6 am, lunch at 10 am and dinner at 4 pm, with all the food vegetarian in accordance with Buddhist tradition.

Founded in the 10th century, Puji Temple is the largest on the island. Typical of the temples there, it has a courtyard adorned with a flower nursery, garden and pavilions.

Like many visitors, Zhao Zheng, one of the members in our group burned incense in Puji Temple, in honour of her grandmother. "She was a fervent Buddhist," Zhao explained.

Following the instructions of our guide, she lit three joss sticks with her right hand from candles inside the large bronze incense burner, then holding them with both hands, she bowed three times before Buddha and made her request. She was then told to arrange the burning joss sticks in the ashes of the incense burner with her left hand which is considered by Buddhists to be cleaner than the right.

Study sanctuary

After experiencing the enthusiasm of pilgrims and inhaling rather too much incense and smoke, which left my eyes watering, I asked our guide whether there are other quieter temples.

He recommended I visit Yinxiu'an Monastery, where the Mount Putuo Buddhism Culture Research Institute is located.

So when other members of our group set off for Fayu Temple, another large temple, Zhao Zheng and I went to the Yinxiu'an Monastery, just 30 minutes walk from our hotel.

There I met Master Jingmin, 35, the vice-director of the research institute, and the leader of the Yinxiu'an Monastery, who showed us some beautiful examples of Buddhist architecture.

Totally different from Puji Temple, Yinxiu'an Monastery has a sublime tranquility, its serenity complemented by plants and birds' singing.

First built in the late Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the monastery was destroyed by fire during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1991), but was soon rebuilt.

Before 1997 when it was returned to the Mount Putuo Buddhism Association, the temple had been occupied by local farmers since 1960.

The late Master Miaoshan (1909-2000), former abbot of the Mount Putuo, gave the task of rebuilding the Yinxiu'an to Master Jingmin.

Born in Dinghai of Zhoushan Archipelago, Master Jingmin was captivated by Buddhism from an early age and, since boyhood, loved reading books on the subject. He insisted on becoming a monk after finishing high school, even though his parents, especially his father, were strongly opposed.

But his wishes held sway and he entered the Buddhist Academy of Mount Putuo, which was established in March 1988 and provides a standard Buddhist education for novice monks and nuns.

"We were expected to complete the Buddhist courses, which accounts for 70 per cent of the curriculum and focuses mainly on doctrine," said Master Jingmin. "The rest of their studies are broad-based and basic and include mathematics, English, Chinese and philosophy.

Although a master in Buddhism, Master Jingmin said he knew little about architecture when he was appointed.

Something of a "perfectionist," he described how he tried very hard to learn architectural techniques with the help of books and country-wide travels where he could see first-hand famous temples and ancient buildings.

"I try to combine modern architectural techniques with the ancient beauty of Buddhism, which is solemn, dignified and sacred," he said.

And the monastery is indeed a perfect example of these philosophies, with its solemn and huge main hall, delicate gardens, elegant corridors, exquisite depository of Buddhist texts and a line of fine rooms for research.

Altogether six monks are working in the research institute and Master Jingmin said he has invited many masters from elsewhere to do research.

Master Miaoshan, the initiator of the institute once said the academy's main aim is to develop research in the field of Buddhism.

Dusk was falling as we made our way back to our hotel, but we had to stop when we came across a small nunnery whose door was almost covered by lush green trees, the reason why we had not noticed it on the way to the Yinxiu'an.

We wandered in and found a group of nuns chanting Buddhist scriptures in the hall - evening prayers. Most of the women appeared to be in their 20s.

We were struck by the peaceful countenance of their faces. To us it spoke volumes about the life of contentment and meaning they had found in holy orders, separated from the world we inhabit.

(China Daily 07/23/2003 page9)