The Middle 8th offers Yunnan's pleasures

Bad omens rarely come during calls to book a restaurant table. Not so at The Middle 8th, tucked back in a Sanlitun alley.

"Don't you dare be late" began the hostess, scolding. "Be here on time or we're not going to hold your table."

The clientele at The Middle 8th is a bit classier. There are local businessmen cursing after hours, chain-smoking mother and daughter pairs in matching turtlenecks, handsome couples in black, and hipsters with faux-hawk coiffure. Though it is warm, comfortable and inoffensive, the interior has the feel of dated chic. Tables are curtained off with red fringe, blocking sight of the waitstaff dressed in yeoman gray.