Stepping out in a sharp, made-to-measure suit is a fast track to feeling like a million dollars. And with Beijing's tailors ready to cut you a fine deal, bespoke style can be yours for a fraction of that amount. Having clothes custom-made is a perk of life for China expats, and popular with tourists. Those on a traveler's budget and pressed for time can head to Beijing's Yashow and Silk Markets, home to dozens of tailor shops turning out business suits from around 800 yuan ($110).

"If the person is living here and they have enough time, normally we can do the suit in a week. If they are very busy, or they are a tourist, we can do it in one day," says Huo Youquan, of Ya Shi Tailor Shop, putting the speedy turnaround down to "magic".

But for Savile Row appeal, expect to pay at least 2,800 yuan ($384) for a men's suit created by the city's handful of high-end tailors. Nels Frye, of Senli and Frye Tailoring, says crafting a top-notch garment typically takes two to three weeks, including two fittings.

"Beware of tailors claiming they can make anything. Quality rarely comes at a low price, especially when it comes to suits. Sometimes you can get away with a cheap tailor making trousers. Also, avoid shops that can make a suit in 24 hours," says Frye, who writes China fashion blog, www.stylites.net.

"Find a tailor who will sit down and listen to your ideas on style. Tailors should steer you in the right direction, so they must have much knowledge of style and construction of garments. While tailors do not necessarily need personal style, if your tailor is wearing a cheap suit, he might not care about crafting well-made suits.

"Most importantly, the tailor who measures you must do the cutting of the fabric for your suit himself. Do not rely on shop assistants who send the measurements back to some workshop for the master to do the cutting - even some high end shops use this approach," he says.

Tailor Huo, who has made suits for a slew of visiting American governors and other dignitaries, recommends browsing fashion magazines, online sites and design catalogues to find examples of styles you like.

Take pictures with you, or if you already own a well-cut suit, the tailor can use this as a sample and produce a good copy, with any tweaking you need.

Being as precise as possible will help eliminate discrepancies in design sensibility between you and the designer, and ensure the finished product is what you want. Discuss garment details - single or double-breasted, 2 or 3-buttons, button placement and button holes, lapels (high or low notch), pockets and flaps, shoulder padding, etc.

"The classic suit, now in style again, has two buttons, two vents and is a light to medium weight wool. The most versatile colors are solids: dark gray and navy blue," Frye says.

"Look at the buttons and button holes. The buttons should seem solid and heavier rather than light and thin. Is the button hole on the lapel real or false? On better suits, it is real.

"Also, feel the fabric and lining. Also, make sure the lapels are not ironed down, they should have a natural role to them," Frye says.

Workmanship accounts for half the value of a finished garment, with the rest determined by materials used in its construction.

Tailor Tom Wu, of Tom's Tailor Shop, offers a wide selection of fabric, ranging from cheaper, Chinese-made wools and cashmere blends, to high-quality materials from Britain and Italy.

British fabric is the most durable and expensive, suited to classic designs, while Italian fabric is lighter.

To test if a fabric sample is 100 percent wool, light it with a match. Wool will burn slightly and give off a natural odor, while synthetics will crumble or melt like plastic.

Wu, a tailor of 16 years experience, offers door-to-door service by appointment and charges around 1500 yuan for a men's suit, rising to 2600 yuan with imported fabric.

"Maybe my price is a little bit higher, but the quality is very, very good," Wu says. "If the customer wants a fitting at their house, it is no problem."

Where to buy:

Ya Shi Tailor Shop, 3066 Yashow Market, 58 Gongti Bei Lu (6413 2432);

Tom's Tailor Shop, 218 Sunny Gold Market, Lido area (5135 7768);

Senli and Frye, 1F Yaxing Bldg, 46A Liangmaqiao Lu (1391 009 2410)

(China Daily 01/12/2008 page5)