MAHE, The Seychelles: There's no need to rush in paradise. That might not be the best recipe for good customer service, but everyone usually does benefit from taking things down a notch while on vacation.

And on the Seychelles, it's almost a rule. Even churches respect the sleepy nature of their congregations. Thus, the clock tower of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception does not simply chime on the hour, but also two minutes after every hour, to help those who missed the first bells.

During services, locals rush to the square outside the cathedral in Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles on the main island of Mahe. Victoria has about 30,000 residents, making it a pleasant island capital for this Indian Ocean archipelago of 100 islands.

Anyone who flies to the Seychelles is looking for a dream vacation. Such expectations make it the second most expensive travel destination in the world behind Polynesia. The islands are popular for honeymoons, but also for anniversaries and other special occasions that demand celebration.

Celebrities who want to escape prying eyes make up another major group of island visitors. Many of them head to private islands, such as the North Island. Just two kilometres long and one kilometre wide, the island hosts a small utopia of 11 guest villas designed by architect Silvio Reich and designer Lesley Carstens to protect privacy.

This compound on an island 25 kilometres northwest of Mahe, is for people who can afford the big city, but want some time away from the glitz and glamour. An overnight for two to four people costs 1,000 euros (US$1,200).

For that price, there are luxury extras, but also the chance to be oneself. The women of North Island do not have to worry about flaunting their jewels or their smart black dresses. They are too busy surrounding themselves in comfort.

It seems logical to combine a Seychelles visit with a trip to the spa. Even if your hotel comes unequipped, there are options, like the Banyan Tree Hotel, where many tourists head to be pampered.

The Lemuria Resort on Praslin, the second biggest island of the Seychelles, also offers a spa area. Its offerings include hot stone massages and facial treatments.

For the more active, there is also an 18-hole golf course on Praslin that wins high praise, even from non-golfers. The 15th hole is almost legendary. The tee is high on top of a mountain, from which one can see the turquoise-coloured sea frothing in Georgette Bay. The green is just to the right of the bay.

The main island of Mahe meanwhile offers more than incredible beaches and magical palm-lined lanes. For example, there is the herb garden Le Jardin du Roi on the southeast of the island, in Royale Bay, which smells like cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg.

One can also just stroll along the beach and enjoy the wonder of life, marvel at the clear skies and wait until it is time to eat. People in the Seychelles describe their relaxed pace of life as "peu a peu." Some 1,000 kilometres away in Kenya, bumper stickers proclaim that there is "No Hurry in Africa." It's the same idea here. Just take it easy.

(China Daily 04/01/2006 page9)