Interestingly, the extract of the fruit is said to be 300 times sweeter than sugar, and has been used for centuries as a low-calorie sugar substitute in China.

The fertile winding rivers of Guangxi are home to many types of freshwater fish and we took full advantage of this.

Yangshuo's local specialty is Beer Fish (pijiu yu), which was particularly delicious as we lunched on a wooden terrace perched on the Yulong River, following a rather muddy morning cycle.

I was delighted to learn that this is a relatively simple dish to re-create. It is a sure winner at home (the alcohol from the beer evaporates during cooking, so it is fine for children and drivers alike).

To cook it: Take any freshwater white fish, slice open along the bottom and score the flesh. Fry on either side in a small amount of peanut oil until golden brown. Add sliced red and green peppers, two sticks of sliced celery, one sliced chili pepper, a few cloves of chopped garlic and an equivalent amount of ginger.

Pour in 300 ml of local beer until it covers the fish. Bring this to boil and add a pinch each of sugar, white pepper and salt, and a teaspoon of oyster and soy sauce. Cook for five minutes, then add two chopped tomatoes and turn the fish over.

Mix a pinch of cornstarch in half a cup of water. After three minutes, add this to the wok along with some chopped spring onion and a few drops of sesame oil.

Cook for two more minutes before serving it with rice and something leafy, such as amaranth (xian cai) or Shanghai pak choi (qing cai).

This nutrition-related column is written by Nina Lenton, a qualified dietitian living and working in Beijing. Contact her at nina_lenton@hotmail.com.

(China Daily 05/28/2008 page19)