(China Daily)
Updated: 2008-03-20 10:59

Visitors can enjoy a close look at the ice-clad waterfalls while walking along the trail. Photos by Patrick Whiteley

The bus tour guides are dressed in Tibetan costume, but my guides couldn't speak English. Chinese tourists helped me translate.

"Why is this lake called Rhino Lake?" I asked. "I never knew there were rhinos in China."

"Legend says an old Tibetan lama rode into Jiuzhaigou on a rhino looking for a cure to his fatal illness," said the guide. "After drinking the waters he was cured and did not ever want to leave. Instead, he rode his rhino into the lake, where he rested in peace."

Jiuzhaigou - which means Nine-Village Valley - is the home of nine Tibetan villages inside the park, and locals play an active part in the park's management. The Qiang people also live in the area and they believe everything under the sun has a soul.

At Shangzhai village, multi-colored Longda banners rustled in the wind. Tibetan prayer wheels were set up near the white pagoda. I spun them, but later found out I spun them the wrong way, clockwise. I don't think Buddha would have minded. It's the thought that counts.

About 5 pm local girls invite visitors to take part in folk dancing (guozhuang). I arrived at noon and the village was empty except for an old man who was shoveling away the recent snow. He looked up from his shovel and smiled then pointed down to the river, to the beautiful waters.

On the banks of the river was a small shack, which acted as a prayer center. Running water powered a large prayer wheel, spinning anti-clockwise.

I sat there peacefully, listening to the trickling stream and watching the light blue colors dance on the water's surface. I scooped a handful of water and quenched my thirst. The water was so pure. For the next hour I did nothing, thought of nothing and a deep peace came over me. A bright ray of sunlight shone down, once again changing the colors of the water to an even brighter blue.

(China Daily 03/20/2008 page20)

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