(urbanatomy.com)
Updated: 2008-02-28 14:22

"Thank God for tea!" said 19th-century English theologian Sydney Smith. Even those with less religious confidence will agree that thanks are due to the splendid Chinese tea servers and their ceremonial contribution to the enjoyment of the beverage.

That said, finding a place to enjoy this delicate ritual in modern Shanghai can be difficult. But not impossible. Certified tea server, Nancy Xu, who has a specialized degree in the art, conducts an authentic gongfu tea ceremony at the Whampoa Club, Three on the Bund. She says that one way to understand the Chinese ceremony is by contrasting it with the Japanese variant. For instance, Chinese use tea leaves as opposed to the expensive tea powder used in Japan. They also focus less upon the theatrical side of proceedings. Although grace is still important, requiring smooth, confident gestures, the emphatic movements that define the Japanese practice are considered an unnecessary archaism, derived from religious rituals originating in Chinese monasteries.

The Chinese ceremony today is more practical, with the focus on the quality of the tea. The best tea must be used and steeped well. This quality can be enjoyed even before the tea is steeped, as guests inhale the fragrance of leaves shortly after the server has placed her tray of tools and cups on the table. Teas include green, red, black, white, and flower. Tell-tale signs of their merit vary according to type. Green tea, best when collected in the springtime, should have a rich, earthy smell (the Guanyin variety is an exception and should have a fragrant aroma). However, such judgments need not be complicated; even an untrained nose should be alert to the unpleasant aroma of old, stale tea.

The steeping process, conducted in front of guests, can be trickier. The server can ruin the tea by overheating it or steeping it too long. Improperly prepared tea can even be unhealthy. But a qualified server remains on guard against such dangers. She carefully monitors the steeping time from the moment the tea is placed in the teapot and until it is poured. Once the tea is served, she waves a hand over the cups to judge the optimum temperature for consumption.

It should be noted that ceremonial responsibilities do not fall solely upon the server. Indeed, guests should observe the simple rules of etiquette. Women, for example, may cover their mouth with their free hand, a cultural remnant from the days when women had inferior status. More importantly, males and females should empty their small drinking cups in three sips. To take fewer is considered a mark of barbarism. It is polite to make small slurping noises while drinking, to show gratitude to the server, but this practice should not be overdone -- loud slurping is a legitimate object of laughter.

Not that laughing is prohibited -- the ceremony need not be a solemn occasion. Granted, the server is typically seen and not heard, but whether the guests are silent or not is left entirely to their own discretion.