By Fiona Lee (That's Beijing)
Updated: 2008-02-14 14:10

Harkening back to a time when tiki bars were more than an exercise in kitsch, this venerable Californian institution finally hits Beijing.

An upscale Polynesian-themed lounge and restaurant, Trader Vic’s comes with wooden idols and attentive, English-speaking staff who earn high marks for service. We started with the delightful lightly crusted fried calamari with wasabi dip (RMB 58). Pacific Rim seafood sauteed with opal basil and topped with Madras curry strips (RMB 138) was sublime and bursting with flavor, while the barbequed half chicken with oyster sauce and baby bok choy (RMB 188) was so tender and juicy that the meat slid off the bone. Reportedly the birthplace of the mai tai, Trader Vic's is rightfully famous for its cocktails.

We recommend the citrus-infused rum cup for two (RMB 110), perfect for sharing with friends. With good food and an entertaining atmosphere, it's a great destination restaurant and well worth a visit.

Trader Vic's
Daily 10am-2pm.
3/F, Bldg C, China International Trade Center, 6 Jianguomenwai Dajie (east of Jianwai Soho), Chaoyang District
8567 9789