By Fongyee Walker and Edward Ragg (That's Beijing)
Updated: 2008-01-08 10:17

As the January cold kicks in and all of us feel the post-Christmas lull before the fire-cracking excitement of Chinese New Year, wine lovers are on the look out for more warming wines. If fuller-bodied whites and reds become more palatable in early winter, this time of year suggests fortified wines. Sherry, Madeira and port are the most famous examples. Mercifully, all of these are now available in Beijing. But it's well to appreciate that each is an overall category, within which many styles can be found. Each of these styles have particular characteristics and attractions. Many also match superbly with different cuisines, particularly Asian ones.

Sherry proper is made in Jerez, Spain, although other types of "sherry-style" wine exist all across Spain and other countries. The major types are Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado and Oloroso. A type of yeast, called flor, gives Manzanillas and Finos a special character. This helps them pair really well with salty and robust foods including Spanish tapas and, surprisingly, Korean fare. Amontillado is aged Fino, exhibiting more mature, nutty flavors. All of these wines are generally dry (except when you see "Cream" on the label which indicates a sweetened style). Olorosos, which are also aged, can be either dry or sweet. They are not affected by flor so have their own unique rich, nutty taste. In Beijing, ASC carries the sherries of Emilio Lustau and Garvey; and Palette Vino has the reliable Alvear. When buying sherry, look out for these four styles. As for year, nearly all wines will be non-vintage since sherry is made through the solera system, a system of fractional blending from different vintages.

Madeira comes from the Portuguese island of the same name. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Madeira became fashionable in America and Britain when it was discovered that wine carried in ships across the equator improved in flavor. The fierce heat changed the wine, making it nutty and more flavorful. Nowadays, the romance of sailing is gone and Madeira harnesses on-shore heating methods instead. The various styles of Madeira are sometimes named after the grape type: Sercial (dry), Verdelho (off-dry), Bual (slightly sweet) and Malmsey or Malvasia (sweet, rich). Or they are identified by a general style, such as Rainwater (lighter). Madeiras can be very food-friendly: good with rich soups, cheeses and Macanese food. Beijing's Cellar Le Pinot carries the wines of the Broadbent Madeira Company, the only Madeira currently available in China.

As for port, styles are arguably even wider. Vintage port needs decades to become drinkable, so the industry developed "Late Bottled Vintage": wines that are drinkable earlier because of their special ageing process. There are also "Tawny Ports" that are aged in wood for longer periods. These are tawny in color, nutty and hugely drinkable. Basic ruby ports, soft in style, and also white ports can make great aperitifs. Generally, these wines are better represented in Beijing: Summergate has Dow, Torres offers Graham's and ASC carries both Taylor's and Fonseca. Montrose has Portuguese-owned producer Pocas on its list.

One advantage in drinking these wines is their staying power. Not only are they warming, they generally keep for several weeks after opening. Madeira is particularly robust, but heavier sherries and most styles of port can be dipped into for at least a fortnight: ideal wines for sharing with friends before (and during) Chinese New Year.