(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2007-12-13 10:12

Much as California rolls represent a whimsical perversion of Japanese sushi, the California-style burrito only vaguely resembles its Mexican ancestor. Instead, this West Coast favorite is a marriage of Latin flavors and surfer-boy sensibilities: a massive, foil-wrapped flour tortilla stuffed with spicy, marinated meat, rice, beans and vegetables.

Cal Kitchen's char-broiled steak super burrito (RMB 42) is passable; it's large enough and the flavor is generally correct. Unfortunately, though, our burrito was soggy and puzzlingly lacked fresh vegetables, cheese and sour cream. Considering these shortfalls, together with the horrifying emulsion of mayonnaise and avocado that passed for 'guacamole' (RMB 8), Cal Kitchen cuts quite a few corners.

Perhaps the novelty of its offerings will carry it through, but we sincerely hope the kitchen's standards will improve with time.

Cal Kitchen
Open: 11am-11pm.
Location: 376 Dagu Lu, by Chengdu Bei Lu
Tel: 021-63401923
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 94