Yes, the bountiful window display of plastic sushi, tempura and gravity-defying udon makes for an eyebrow-raising spectacle. But the kitsch, like the restaurant’s owner and sushi chefs, is thoroughly Japanese.

Indeed, Apple unabashedly caters to Japanese patrons: the Japanese-language menu concedes only a few abbreviated Chinese translations and the purposeful-looking lunchtime crowd was clearly not local. Intrigued, we ordered an assorted sushi platter (RMB 120 for 10 pieces of sushi and two rolls) and a tray of assorted tempura (RMB 45). Both were average but satisfying; the imported fish failed to dazzle, but considering the price, the meal was certainly good value.

And though the half-hearted nautical décor and overly-exuberant waitstaff betrayed a certain amateur eagerness, in the end this only added to the restaurant’s quirky charm.

Apple
Open: Daily 11am-2pm; 5-10pm. 
Location: 558 Yuyuan Lu, by Zhengning Lu
Tel: 021-62528067