(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2007-10-10 11:05

Nothing is more quintessentially American than the roadside diner. But for every slickly-advertised and well-lit corporate outlet, there is one of the genuine article: a comfortable eatery complete with saucy servers and a close-knit community of regulars.

Steak and Eggs is such a diner. The dining room has an uncanny lived-in quality, and from the first cup of bottomless urn-poured coffee (RMB 16), we knew this was the real deal. Our vegetable omelet (RMB 35) was excellent, though admittedly we were biased by the perfectly-prepared grits. Sadly, we cannot recommend the country-fried steak (RMB 55)-the flavorless gravy was not up to Southern breakfast standards.

That said, the service was as warm as the apple pie (RMB 19), and the reasonable prices lend another authentic touch: value for money.

Steak and Eggs
Open: Daily 6am-12mn.
Location: 99-3 Xikang Lu, by Nanjing Xi Lu
Tel: 021-62792201Cost for two excluding drinks: RMB90