(Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2007-09-24 09:42

Shaanxi cuisine is so famous throughout the country that it is easy to find dishes from the province in most corners of Beijing. But the challenge comes in finding a single Shaanxi-style restaurant that satisfies an appreciative yet captious pallet.

Most Shaanxi restaurants in town offer only crude and unsatisfactory imitations of the cuisine's delightful dishes. They often look like dishes from the province but fail the taste test in terms of authenticity.

As a Shaanxi-style restaurant, Huangheshui (Yellow River Water) doesn't stand out because of its decoration or service. But it has won a loyal customer base with its genuine Shaanxi taste and has become known as one of the capital's best Shaanxi restaurants.

Located near the National Art Museum of China, this small eatery is often crowded with customers who pack the place to capacity in their quest to satisfy their hankering for authentic Shaanxi food.

Shaanxi cuisine is known for its flour-made snacks (xiaochi). Some iconic dishes from the province include baked cake with braised pork stuffing, soaked, unfermented cake in beef or mutton soup and cold rice noodles. Two of the most famous noodle dishes from the province are stretched noodles with diced vegetables and pork, and oil-sprinkled noodles.

The establishment's baked cake with braised pork stuffing is among its best dishes. The cake is somehow both crisp and soft, while the pork is thoroughly braised. And the restaurant's cold rice noodles are slippery and soothing to chew. While stretched noodles with diced vegetables and pork proffers much variety on a single plate, a serving of oil-sprinkled noodles is an excellent, aromatic, dry option, despite its propensity for oiliness.

Diners can also sample cold dishes, such as chicken giblets, carrot slices and shredded celery.

The restaurant has just become a 24-hour establishment, so it's never too late to get your fix of Shaanxi cuisine. Its decor and furnishings are simple, giving the place a fast-food feel.

The menu is posted on the wall and is only in Chinese, and average spending ranges from 15 to 30 yuan per person.

Location: A24 Meishuguan Dongjie, Dongcheng District, next to SDX Joint Publishing Company
Opening hours: 24 hours
Tel: 010-6404-4526.