By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-07-03 10:44

In the waking hours, however, there is also plenty of leisure to be had. "The Land of Abundance" boasts a wealth of scenic gardens that were once literally playgrounds of the wealthy. Now greatly treasured UNESCO Heritage Sites, a few of these luscious enclosures, such as the Humble Administrator Garden (Zhuo Zheng Yuan), have been restored to their former glory.

Unfortunately, visitors to these sightseeing spots may find themselves struggling with the pack of tourists that descend upon these opulent oases. The point of peace is lost on many as tour leaders blare quick descriptions that do not really mean anything over loudhailers as they trespass through the premises.

It is possible to find respite, if only for a while, in the more secluded corners, and enjoy the beautifully landscaped flowerbeds and stone ornaments. Birds chirp happily away and insects buzz busily about. One almost feels disinclined to swat them away. Almost.

Next to the Zhuo Zheng Yuan is the iconic I.M. Pei-designed Suzhou Museum. The master of modernist architecture, known for the Bank of China Tower in Hong Kong, the Louvre Pyramids in Paris and Raffles City in Singapore, is a Suzhou native, and his iconic design is one of the main reasons people visit the landmark.

Inside holds a modest collection of art, ranging from local favorite ink wash paintings to calligraphy, as well as antiques such as ancient pottery and handmade crafts. Not as impressive as the building itself, but still worth viewing.

After all that trekking, a meal is in order. Song He Lou is one of the more popular establishments, with an impressive history of more than 100 years. Jiangnan (Regions south of the Yangtze River) cuisine is mainly river fare, with the surrounding Taihu Lake providing a rich source of freshwater fish. Expect less oil and sugar but more salt than Shanghainese food.

At this juncture a stiff drink is probably in order, so a quick hop over to Shiqian Street brings you to the institutional Pulp Fiction Bar. The venue is exactly as it says on the tin, considerably cheaper than Shanghai counterparts and also a lively atmosphere. Ask for the Welsh barkeep whose name sounds almost made up and cannot be replicated in English. The lad came here on holiday and loved it so much that he stayed.

If you are looking for luxurious lodgings, then the newly opened Shangri-La Hotel Suzhou is just the ticket for a hot bath and a sound sleep, along with other five-star amenities, among them a state-of-the-art gym, swimming pool with steam and sauna rooms, a tennis court and mini-golf course.

The first international deluxe hotel in the city's New and Hi-Tech Development Zone occupies the 28th through 51st floors of the looming Metropolitan Tower. The 390-room property brings all the bells and whistles associated with the Shangri-La brand.

Food and beverage outlets are also aplenty, meaning if you want to miss what the city has to offer and stay in, you can. The all-day diner Cafe Soo offers international buffet, Shang Palace serves modern Cantonese and Huai Yang cuisines and the Japanese Restaurant Suntory, operated by the group of the same name.

Hotel bars are far from popular across Asia, but given Suzhou's circumstances, Club Red Bar is really a top-notch space. Featuring two karaoke rooms if that is your thing, the main bar area is tastefully done, with an extensive cocktail list and reasonable prices to boot. Expect to pay as much as a downtown Shanghai bar charges a drink.

Admittedly, it would be a waste not to see more of the Chinese mainland; the country offers such diverse beauty across an amazing vastness. However, that being said, coming to Shanghai without a trip to Suzhou would be so much more of a shame.

      1   2     

      1   2