Italian guest chef Marco Anzani slays you twice. First with the presentation of his food, then with the taste. Until the end of the month, visitors to The Kerry Center Hotel Beijing's Coffee Garden can sample fine cuisine created by Anzani, a native of Como, Northern Italy, who has racked up 20 years' time in the kitchen.

He is in China on loan from the Philippines, where since 2004 he has delighted the taste buds of diners at Shangri-La's Mactan Resort and Spa.

Left: Lobster salad on green asparagus. Right: Rosemary marinated Valdostana.

At Tuesday night's launch for Anzani's turn as feature chef at the Kerry Center, all six courses were devoured at speeds rivaling those of the sports cars of which he is fond.

"I was in love before I tasted it," cooed one guest, a self-confessed foodie who whipped out her camera and took a happy snap of the main course to send to her mother. "It's beautiful," she said. The male diner beside her was equally elated, if not as poetic: "This is the first real steak I've had in Beijing," he said.

That dish was rosemary marinated Angus beef tenderloin of melting texture, with charcoal roasted tomato and rich mushroom ragout drizzled in a wine reduction.

Emerging triumphant as coffee was served, Anzani said he had created a menu that would match the capital city - modern and exciting.

"As Beijing is becoming more modern, so must the food," the well-traveled chef said. Anzani honed his tasty art in his home country before expanding his culinary horizons. He worked in top hotels and restaurants in London, the Dominican Republic and Istanbul before bringing Mediterranean flair to Asia.

Tuesday's menu showcased Italian classics with a contemporary twist.

First course was a delicate lobster salad on crisp asparagus, dotted with Beluga caviar dressing and extra virgin olive oil.

Next, crumbed calamari and vegetables with sun-dried tomato marmalade and a hint of preserved lemon filled a crisp, herbed basket. Then came an incredibly decadent serve of fresh tortellini, stuffed with goats cheese and chives, and topped with goose liver and truffle foam.

Some diners were crying full before the generous steak arrived, but it was seared to perfection and they savored it regardless. The reward? A trio of dainty desserts. The frosted glass platter held a selection almost too good to eat. Caramel curls topped little cinnamon chocolate cake with homemade mint ice-cream, while a sweet compote of strawberry nestled in a shot glass.

Until June 30, Anzani will re-create these dishes and many more for the Coffee Garden's buffet, though in smaller sizes so that guests can try it all. Which is just as well, considering the vast array of exotic cheese on offer. Just be sure to save room for after-thoughts, as even the strongest would be hard pressed to pass the silver trays of tiny sweets, each decorated with the tri-colored Italian flag denoting the country to which Anzani owes his devotion to good food. In the words of the charming chef himself, "Prego!"

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