Summer season brews

(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2007-06-14 10:21

Castle Oktober is waging a courageous but ill-advised two-front war, trying to gain territory as both a premier pub and an upscale dining destination. But will it win the day? Well, unlike so many other 'expense account bars', which charge RMB 60 or more for a pint of grocery-store beer, Castle's posh pricing seems justified. As our knowledgeable and surprisingly well-spoken server explained, the bar's three microbrews are made with high-quality ingredients (malts, hops, etc) and equipment imported directly from Germany. The difference is clear to even casual beer drinkers: both the sweet, delicate Weiss beer (RMB 48 for .3L) and the full-bodied, unfiltered Dunkle beer (RMB 68 for .5L) were excellent. On the former front, we declare a decisive victory: this might be our new favorite place for beer, especially on a warm, sunny day...

But regarding Castle Oktober's plans to dominate the mid-range market for old-world fare, we must confess that upon entering its graceful and well-manicured biergarten, a fiery glint of copper from the spanking-new brew kettle caught our eyes, blinding us to all but the beer menu.

And while we did take note of the imposing but immaculate interior, with its unfinished-wood furnishings and soft cream and brown hues, the scale seems a bit off. The dining area is too big, the menu too broad in its concept, and as a result, the whole indoor experience felt a bit hollow. So while we can't endorse the dining, we will certainly be back for the draughts.

In the end, if history holds any lessons for this German restaurant, it should stay close to home (more schnitzel, fewer jalapeno peppers) and stick with tradition (beer).

Castle Oktober
Location: 39 Taojiang Lu, by Wulumuqi Nan Lu
Tel: 021-64312668
Open time: 11am-2am.