Guangfu Forcing House (AKA Wen Shi Cafe) is a 600-year-old Taoist sanctuary turned into a terrific temple of tipple. Whether or not it's impious to booze it up in such a sacred spot is much less worthy of meditating over than several snifters of the bar's signature Tibetan green barley beer (25 yuan per can, 30 yuan per glass).

Upon entering this establishment, visitors pass through a large arched entryway painted with murals of women in flowing dresses scattering flower petals and toting zithers. An old tree trunk sprouts from the center of the breezeway, but its leafage is obscured by the ceiling.

The first floor is comprised of a small maze of alcoves accessed by passing through Central Asian-style archways. These quarters are filled with scuffed dark-wood bench tables and clusters of couches separated by traditional-styled screens, and Buddhist sculptures, Cubist paintings and potted plants line the walls of these dimly lit rooms.

A precipitous flight of rickety wooden stairs leads past the reed-thatched ceiling to the rooftop terrace. On cooler summer nights, legions of lethargic lizards seek the heat emitted by this area's red lantern and cast giant reptilian shadows across the tabletops.

Patrons can sit in the clusters of wicker chairs overlooking the alleyway and enjoy the view of the patchwork of hutong rooftops fighting for space with the canopy of rustling treetops.

The bar proffers an extensive menu of mostly Western food, which includes some of the best burgers in Beijing. And it also proffers a diversity of beers and more than a dozen varieties of cocktails (both starting at 30 yuan) to wash these meals down.

Disciples of the drink with a reverence for the agedness of Beijing's edificial offerings would find that Guangfu effectively enshrines both the old and brew.

Opening hours: Daily, 5pm-late.
Address: 36 Yandai Xiejie, Houhai, Xicheng District.
Tel: 010-131-2182-5633.