(smartshanghai.com)
Updated: 2007-05-23 08:32

I think ultimately, if you have only one weekend to spare and have to choose between Hangzhou and Suzhou, both described as heaven on Earth, I would opt for Suzhou. Suzhou feels much smaller and the pretty parts are more spread out (in Hanghzhou it's all about West Lake), so a stroll around town has more to offer.

Need to know:
Described as 'paradise on Earth,' Suzhou has a mild climate all year round and is famous for its beautiful gardens, calming canals and its prominence in the silk trade. Suzhou is located in the south of Jiangsu Province, 100km north of Shanghai. 42% of the area of the city is covered by water and currently more than sixty traditional gardens are kept intact, including several which have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Need to go:

The gardens in Suzhou, some of which have been around for nearly 1000 years, are one of the city's main draws. Most notable is the Garden of the Master of Nets, which is the smallest but probably the best. It has an impressive and aesthetically pleasing layout that gives the garden the illusion of being larger than it is. The Humble Administrator's Garden, which is a lot bigger and more like a park, is also worth a look. Both gardens are World Heritage sites and it is recommended that you visit them early to avoid the flagpole-toting tour groups. Expect to pay between 20-80rmb, depending on which garden you go to.

The Silk Museum.Learn the history of silk-making in Suzhou over the last 4000 years, admire some ancient outfits and check out the live silk worms in different stages of life. Couple it with a visit to the Silk Embroidery Institute to see the finest embroidery in the world, or take a trip down Shi Quan Street, to get hold of some modern-day silk.

The North Pagodais the tallest pagoda south of the Yangzi and at nine stories high it offers a nice view of the city.

Further out of town but still worth a visit are Tiger Hill and Hangshen Temple, also known as Cold Mountain Temple.

What to eat and where:

Most meals will exemplify how Suzhou food has a unique, sweet flavour and tends to be colourful, with plenty of seafood provided by nearby Taihu Lake. It is customary in Suzhou to eat different food according to the seasons. In spring you can find Biluo Xiaren (fried shrimp with biluochun tea) whilst in summer Xigua Ji (chicken wrapped in watermelon rind and steamed) is more common. By autumn it's time to enjoy steamed crabs and Bafei Soup. The ultimate Suzhou dish however is Songshu Guiyu (mandarin fish, stewed and fried) because it was praised by Emperor Qianlong. You can try these local delicacies at De Yue Lou on Taijian Nong, open 11am-2pm/5pm-9pm) or Pine and Crane Restaurant on Guan Qian Jie (open 11am-1:30pm/5pm-8:30pm).

Snacks such as pastries are also eaten according to season. Spring sees the arrival of scones with sweet fermented rice while in autumn moon cakes stuffed with fresh meat are widely available. The best place to find the latest selection is at Cai Zhi Zhai, Dong Jiao Men (open 8:30am-9pm Monday to Thursday and 8:30am-10pm on Friday and Saturday).
See a list of typical Chinese and Suzhou style dishes with Chinese characters and English translations here.

Nightlife:

Traditional performances of Kun opera, Pingtan (a form of storytelling and ballad singing in Suzhou dialect) with Guzheng (a Chinese zither with 25 strings) can be found in the Garden of Master of Nets. Some take place outside and others occur in pavilions. Entrance costs 60-80RMB and performances take place from 7:30pm-10pm between mid-March and mid-November. A stroll through the adjacent night market can be a nice way to round off the evening too.

Shi Quan Jie is the bar street, if cultural shows aren't your thing! Popular bars include Harry's Bar, which has live music six nights a week, and the Pulp Fiction Bar. Suzhou has one club, called Club 1.

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