Where to eat

Have breakfast where the executive chef of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurant on the Bund does: at the stalls on Changle and Xiangyang roads. Meat and vegetable steamed buns, scallion flatbread and egg-filled crepes sell for about 1 yuan apiece. You can picnic at nearby Fuxing Park.

A few blocks south, the maestro at Wang Hao Wang (123 Xiangyang Lu; 86-21-6466-0832) twists and pulls blocks of dough into skeins of spaghetti, then plops them into boiling broth. The noodles, starting at 4 yuan a bowl, are divine.

Din Tai Fung (2nd floor, Xintiandi south block, Huangpi Nan and Zizhong Lu; 86-21- 6385-8378) makes Shanghai's best xiao long bao (45 to 68 yuan for 10). Also on its menu are basics like wonton soup, braised bamboo shoots and sweet-smoky fried fish.

If you're craving upscale and your children are adept at fine dining, T8 (Building 8, Xintiandi north block, 181 Taicang Lu; 86-21-6355-8999; www.t8-shanghai.com) will suit you both. The cuisine is Aussie-Asian; the d¨¦cor, swanky Zen. Entrees include roasted black cod with potato and lobster mash (288 yuan) and Angus beef tenderloin with oxtail strudel (358 yuan). The children's menu offers pizza, fish and chips or a BLT and ice cream for 58 yuan. Sit alongside the open kitchen to watch the chefs.

The Sunday brunch at the Westin Bund Center (88 Henan Zhong Lu; 86-21-6335-1888; www.westin.com/shanghai) is a buffet with everything from caviar and tiramis¨´ to chicken nuggets and ice cream sundaes. Dancers and acrobats perform, and roving artisans turn balloons and grass into animals for the kids. A babysitting corner has toys and cartoons. Ages 6 and younger eat free, 7 to 12 are 185 yuan, and adults 418.

Where to stay

At the Portman Ritz-Carlton (1376 Nanjing Xi Lu; 86-21-6279-8888; www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/shanghai) the service, including babysitting and toddler-proofing kits, is superb. In the Shanghai Center, the hotel is just steps from a grocery store, pharmacy and family-friendly restaurants. Standard doubles are 3,320 yuan, but look for specials.

The Radisson Plaza Xing Guo Hotel (78 Xingguo Lu; 86-21-6212-9998; www.radisson.com/shanghaicn_plaza) is surrounded by lawn and trees. The oasis of a hotel also has a swimming pool, bowling lanes, ping-pong tables and babysitters. Standard doubles, a bit small, start at 1,600 yuan on weekdays.

Regal International East Asia Hotel (516 Hengshan Lu; 86-21-6415-5588; www.regal-eastasia.com) has tennis courts, billiards, a bowling alley, a pool and a small play room. The rooms are simple and comfortable, and doubles are 1,300 yuan on weekdays and 900 yuan on weekends through July.

The Shanghai Center's short-stay apartments (1376 Nanjing Xi Lu; 86-21-6279-8665; www.shanghaicentre.com) generally require a minimum five-nights' stay, but not always. Apartments come with kitchens, maid service and use of the Ritz-Carlton's gym. One-bedrooms start at 1,570 yuan a night, two bedrooms at 1,970.

1

2

3