Amid wheeler-dealers, an urban playground

(New York Times)
Updated: 2007-05-14 09:38

Outdoors


The Ori ental Pearl TV Tower in Pudong area has always been   a popular tourism spot in Shanghai.

Shanghai's lifeline to the sea, the Huangpu River, also divides the city into Puxi, its older, western part, and Pudong, the more recently developed, flashier section. Pudong's riverfront promenade is ideal for strolls, flying kites and views of the Bund, a stretch of early 20th-century European edifices. The hard-working Huangpu bustles with tugs, barges and freighters.

Chinese parks are typically simulations of nature overtaken by pavement, artificial lakes, rides and snack stands. Of Shanghai's public parks, Gongqing Forest Park in northeastern Puxi (2000 Jungong Lu; 86-21-6532-8194; www.shgqsl.com) is the closest to natural. Its tree-stump trash cans are fake wood, but the grassy meadows, fir and bamboo groves and bird trills are very real. Horseback riding, roller coasters, merry-go-rounds, go-kart rides and a rock-climbing wall are among the entertainment options. To get around Gongqing, you can walk, catch a shuttle (10 yuan), or ride a tandem-bike (20 yuan an hour) or boat (20 to 50 yuan an hour). Entrance is free for children under 47 inches, 9.6 to 12 yuan for bigger folks.

Downtime

For a higher-than-a-bird's-eye view, head to Jin Mao Tower, an Art Deco monolith, which on cloudy nights evokes Gotham City. The Grand Hyatt (88 Shi Ji Da Dao; 86-21-5049-1234; www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com), occupies floors 53 to 87, and the lobby offers jaw-dropping panoramas. From the 56th-floor Patio lounge, gaze up at the dizzying spiral of rooms. Though the lounge is geared toward the cigar-and-cognac set, you can order milk (50 yuan) and chocolate cake (70 yuan). An evening trio plays jazz on classical Chinese instruments.

Shanghai, China The Shanghai Huangpu River Cruise tours (127 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu or 219 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu; 86-21-6374-4461) plunk you amid the action on the Huangpu. Cranes mark future sites of the 2010 World Expo, a cruise ship terminal and a 101-story office tower. Boats depart every half-hour, but try for one at dusk, when landmarks on both banks are illuminated. An hour cruise is 38 yuan until 6 p.m., 50 yuan afterward; kids under 51 inches ride free.

With its strobe lights and psychedelic colors, the Bund Tourist Tunnel (300 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu; 86-21-5888-6000) offers a Disney-esque tram ride across the Huangpu. A one-way trip is free for children under 31.5 inches, 17.5 or 35 yuan for everyone else.
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