There is something very appropriate about the fact that Shanghai grew from a muddy riverbank, that nature capriciously deposited enough foul-smelling sediment here to support the foundations of a few colonial structures. The rest, of course, is history. The city developed so quickly that a 50-meter station, with a concrete tower, was built in 1907 to replace an older, wooden signal tower; the new tower provided the time and local weather conditions for fisherman along the Huangpu River. But, in typical Shanghai fashion, this building became obsolete within a decade. Most recently, it housed a small and ill-marketed museum, easily lost in a maze of river cruises and Bund tourist tunnels.

Lost, that is, until it reopened as Atanu. The first floor is nothing extraordinary; we suggest quickly ascending the spiral staircase and securing a table on the second floor. There, oversized chairs, moody lighting and rich draperies are thoughtfully balanced with simple accents and historic Bund photos. The result is a lounge which manages to be classic without being stuffy. The real treat here, however, is the rooftop bar. Because of Atanu's unique location, these open-air seats offer breathtaking views of both the Puxi and Pudong skylines.

While the building was a century in the making, decidedly less time has been invested in staff training. We overheard the bartender on his mobile phone getting a lesson on how to pour the bar's namesake drink, the Atanu (RMB 50). The ingredients sounded promising, but our anticipation turned to disappointment when we were told the bar lacked a necessary liqueur. However, the Cosmopolitan (RMB 45) was fair enough, garnished with apologies but not a lime. We sincerely hope that the level of professionalism will rise with time. Atanu is a beautiful and reasonably-priced bar with a first-class view that more than justifies a repeat visit.

Atanu
Location: 1 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, by Yan'an Lu
Tel: 021-33130871
Open: 11:30am-2am.