I decided to explore Putuoshan on foot-the island's not very big and I can't stand tour groups. Anyway, I fancied myself the intrepid explorer. The first thing I came across was the Hundred Step Beach, which you have to pay to get on. I¡¯m not sure what I paid for exactly, but I did have the place almost to myself. What bliss compared to Shanghai! I wrenched off my shoes and tore off my socks-ah, there it was: the warm sand beneath my feet and the sea lapping at my toes. I strolled along the beach and then lay on a rock in the sun, feeling like a lizard but hoping I wouldn¡¯t end up looking like one.

What I hadn't expected was the difference between this beach and those in Europe. Perhaps thankfully, no one here was reclining on a sun-lounger wearing a bikini smaller than Barbie's. In fact, the few people I did see hadn't even taken off their shoes. There was no swimming either, but I guess it's hard to get excited about water the colour of cappuccino.

I think walking rather than going from site to site by bus was one of the best decisions I made. For one thing, I was undisturbed for the most part, just drifting across the island's roads by myself, except for the occasional passing minibus. And it wasn't difficult either-the signs at every crossroads enabled me to navigate my way around the island.

As I went along, my curiosity took me up some steps, to find out what was at the top. I stumbled upon a temple. Sitting in the afternoon sunlight of the courtyard was just one other person, but in the temple itself a group of red-robed monks were chanting prayers, ringing bells and striking drums. I sat there for some time listening to their singing and feeling calm and peaceful. Just as I was leaving, thinking to myself what a magical place this was, I heard the crackle of a megaphone. My feeling of harmony was shattered by the arrival of a herd of yellow-capped tourists clutching bouquets of bright pink incense-but I guess that's the reality of any holiday destination.

In the end, despite my aversion to seafood, I found myself having dinner in one of Putuoshan's many seafood restaurants. I had crab, shrimps and celery with squid, which set me back 130rmb. The food was good, but it was frustrating wrestling with the shells. I have to say I couldn't see any other kinds of restaurants, although perhaps if I'd moved away from the sea front I would have had more luck. After that, I had to retreat to the hotel-I couldn't face any sort of nightlife after walking all day.

Related: Hongzhou

1

2