Did this refer to food that had been taken to the Old World, given a tour of the surroundings and brought back steeped in the culture of Europe? Surely Western food was Western food, no matter where it faced.

Ginger Cafe soon set the confusion straight. This quaint little coffee shop is a big hit with Westerners looking for tasty food and homemade drinks. Attracting the health-conscious crowd with a selection of smoothies and light snacks, the joint is a great gathering point after a nice session of yoga upstairs.

The interior is pretty romantic, but a tad uncomfortable. Stools may look plush but are uncomfortable regardless. The advice would be to sit in the narrow courtyard out back and bask in the gentle rays of our long-forgotten friend, the sun. Just don't look up unless you want to catch a glimpse of the upstairs tenants' knickers strung out to dry.

Cleverly, of course, there are no tables set up beneath the washing lines, lest one worries about being dripped upon while eating. Looking straight ahead and around is fine and pleasant - the area is clean, tidy and cozy.

The food was enough to catch the eye anyway. Glancing at the simply printed menus revealed the necessity for the curious genre. The fare was indeed mostly Western, but a few Southeast Asian dishes on the lunch selection piqued interest.

The Ginger rice bowl (65 yuan/US$8.40) was simplicity on a table. A pinch of bamboo shoots over white rice lightly steamed with a touch of ginger. Lean chunks of steamed chicken and chestnuts gave bite and substance to this very healthy dish, washed down with a bowl of miso soup.

The beef curry rice (60 yuan) was also not as expected. Instead of a bowl of fiery hot broth, the meat was served dry but peppery. Nonetheless it was superb - finely minced beef and mixed vegetable with a choice of white or brown rice. The portion was just adequate too - not too filling for the midday meal.

For those feeling particularly peckish, the bistro offers two bento boxes for 125 yuan. Diners can choose between a Japanese set or an Asian meal which includes coconut rice, otak otak (spicy fish terrine), vegetable curry and tofu.

When dusk sets the courtyard carries an intimate aura. To end the day, tuck into the rosemary grilled half chicken. The poultry was grilled to perfection, and the Dijon mustard sauce, although a little inadequate, made the succulent bird flesh sweet and tangy. The pan fried potatoes were also surprisingly good - there was hardly any oil involved.

A restaurant looking to promote healthy eating also needs decent vegetarian choices, and the wild mushroom risotto was as healthy as they come. Risotto continues to be a vegetarian-only affair, but in this case the Italian rice was deliciously compact and moist.

To a number of regular diners, the cost here can be a little prohibitive, but for this quality it does provide good value. Location is a little inconvenient as well, but the serenity just adds to the charm.

Ginger Cafe is one of those places that makes Shanghai more than just an outpost and another stamp in the global traveler's passport. The food is good and unique enough for one to be sitting on a plane to Nairobi or anywhere with thoughts wondering Shanghai's Ginger Cafe and to fragrant ginger-steamed rice with a refreshing lime soda on the side.

Ginger Cafe
Address: 299 Fuxing Xilu
Tel: 021-64339437