First-timers to the city look forward to finding traces of the Shanghai of yore-smoky jazz, and a rich East-West sensibility. Lynn seems to take inspiration from this decadent dynamic.

In contrast to the Art Deco-detailed ambience is the light-handed preparation and clean flavors that characterize their take on modern Shanghai fare. Lynn does away with the heavy, oily sweetness and puts the ingredients centerstage. Beancurd skin roll with vegetables (RMB18) was a classic done superbly: tasty, crispy but not greasy. Saut¨¨ed minced chicken with pine nuts with flaky sesame pockets (RMB38) was a subtly-flavored dish with good texture. The real star of our meal was stir-fried fish slices in wine sauce (RMB36), flavorful and cooked just the right length of time.

At non-signature prices. Lynn is already on its way to becoming a swingin' city staple. Perfect for: sexy qipaos and red lipstick.

Lynn
Location: 99-1 Xikang lu
Tel: 021-62470101