While an unusual choice, there are literally thousands of
vacations you can plan that revolve around fish: Head to Japan to brave a puffer
fish roll, vacation in Oregon and Washington States to see Pacific salmon run,
journey to Scandinavia for a pungent bite of pickled herring or strap on a tank
in Australia and visit the deep blue. A lesser known destination for fish
aficionados is in northwest China.
The Hezhe people from Heilongjiang
province have long depended on fish for their survival, and not just for food,
but also for their clothing. For centuries this minority group has donned fish
skins, except in the winter when they kept cozy in deer fur.
There are
4,200 Hezhe people left today. This Hezhe community is made up of a tiny
collection of solid one-story buildings and a few mud houses with thatched
roofs. Only four of the women still know how to make the traditional fish skin
clothes.
You Wenfeng, 55, has made 15 sets of traditional Hezhe fish
skin clothing in her life, mainly for museums in Japan and China. The two sets
of childrenĄ¯s clothing and one pair of adult shoes she made recently for
Canadian museums were beautifully stitched by hand, with the natural markings of
the fish placed perfectly. Twice You mentions that she is the best tailor in her
village.
"In the old days," says You, "our clothes lasted 10 years, but
our shoes only two. As for the smell, it goes away in a month." The material is
surprisingly soft and strong.
You's grandmother taught her how to manipulate fish skin into clothing when
she was 21, after a Chinese museum asked for some specimens. Today she is
teaching her daughter-in-law this craft.
The best skins are from live
salmon caught in late September in nets in the Heilongjiang River which meets
the Songhua and Wusuli Rivers near Hezhe village. You uses fish that weigh 4-7
kilograms each, the larger the better though.
After her family helps her
skin and scale the fish, they carefully scrape the insides clean with a knife
and dry them flat in straight lines. Drying takes at least a day in the sun.
To soften them, they cover the fish skins in corn flour and then roll
and mash them in a wooden, jaw-like instrument called a "mu he" in Putonghua and
a "ge ji kou" in the Hezhe language. They also make the skin flexible by rubbing
the pieces together by hand. Then comes the cutting. You does not use a pattern
or glue, but puts the pieces together from memory and sews them by hand with
cotton thread.
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